Last Unclimbed Lines

Listed below are some of the really great lines that are still to be done in the moors.

Vulcan

The Magic Scoop (Highcliffe) H8 7a
A short hanging scoop with an outrageous start. The rest has been linked at sustained english 6c. Would be a brilliant route if possible to start.

The Scooped Face    H7 6b

Luke's linked this a couple of times (starting from the bottom of central crack- could go direct). Sustained, but fairly steady climbing with no gear. A pure line.

Vulcan Arete    H7 6c
Another very good line. A sharp boulder problem leads to a flat hold that feels wet, but isn't! A slippery dynamic move off this smooth hold would allow a pocket to be reached (cam). A slightly more tricky, enjoyable and technical sequence then follows to the top. Will be tough H7 with a lot of pads, probably H8 without.

Stoope Rib H1? 7?
The blunt rib to the right of the Scooped Face is unprotected and Nails.  Not really inspected this.

The Mono Wall   H10 7a
After much fiddling I still can't get any gear in any of the monos. Has been done in two halves on a TR.

Impossible Arete H1? 7b
8 metres of unprotected and extreme laybacking up an arete.  Some of the moves could prove to be impossible. Nails in any case. The Crack to the left is also a project.

The Kepwick Groove H9 6c
Dangerous climbing of around F7c,  which becomes harder once you place the skyhook in the good pocket.  Massive last move. If you bashed a peg into the hole it might be E8, but would be sad to semi-tame the beast and would make the first unprotected moves really hard.



We've currently got a list of 62 other things to get done, so we'll have to see how the next few years go!