Franco Cookson

Goals for 2012

2012-01-11T21:32:00.006Z

So, the traditional listing of all those aims one has for the coming year is here. Grades, routes, classics, competition etc. Well, for the first time in my life I can honestly say I don't give a shit about grades. I don't care if I onsight E6 or E7 or HS. If it's about your own improvement then grades don't matter and if it's about competing with others then you might as well give up now, as there will always be someone who has totally lost grasp in the point of climbing and trains like a maniac and is hence better than you.

No, my climbing aims this year are far more spiritual. I want the North York Moors to become monogomous, perhaps sharing themselves only with dooge et al, but certainly focused on me, like I am with them. Relationships are nothing without monogamy and I feel the lengths of adventure I was prepared to go to with the moors, deserves a little respect back. So more talking to the stone me thinks.

Once we have bonded and the Moors lets me explore that mythical state of ultimate friction, where every gram of possible resistance is available to me for upward propulsion, then it's time to abandon the no hands problems and strangery; and head on to the routes.

When it comes to routes, I am interested in the obvious new discoveries, such as the Smuggler's Terrace, but I am not looking for huge quantities of 'fast food'. In general I'll be looking for those really unique routes; routes like the magic scoop at Highcliffe or the footless rib at Danby. These lines are special. They are absurdly difficult, but not in terms of numbers, in terms of what your head and body has to do to climb them. It's not some equation you can work out and rationalise; and to climb them as such is risking seriously pissing off the moors gods permanently- which is never a good move.

So my aims this year are a bit less egotistical, but probably totally unobtainable:
*To climb a mythical line in the moors. Something that makes the first part of my life complete.
*To finish my apprenticeship with the moors and finally feel at peace with them.
*To climb those last routes that I never got round to doing- especially things like Stratagem
*To climb some of Ramsden's and Waterton's routes ground up.

I see a good year this year. I've had a great life so far and if I can avoid the dangerous moments it seems to just be getting better and better.

2011 Finally Over

2012-01-09T01:56:00.009Z

What a funny year. What a dangerous year. I'm really quite pleased to be looking back at 2011. It was a horrible year really. There were a lot of really great times, loads of new discoveries and I feel a much better person for all the experiences of last year, but there are some rather indelible scars 2011 has left me with.

There have been some pretty big changes in my personal life, namely moving to Austria and splitting up with my girlfriend, that have unsurprisingly had some effects on my climbing; or maybe they are all indicators of a changing me.

The year started with bad form and very little climbing, culminating in me nearly dying at Tintwistle. This isn't some romantic exaggeration to try and talk about the wonders of the inner workings of the climber's mind, but a reality. The odds would have dictated death was more than likely, but for some reason (or lack of reason) I survived. At the time I didn't think this had affected me at all. I still climbed. I still had a laugh. I still went out and listened to trance music. But on reflection it definitely had an affect on me.

Fast forward 5 months, through a few uneventful new routes and messing around on the welsh testpieces and classics such as poetry pink, and I'm in the alps with Luke. I love climbing with Luke. He's bold when he needs to be, compassionate, really keen and he is kind of the father figure in my climbing. It had been a long time since I had climbed with Luke and it was great to think that I was heading out to the alps with him and his medic friends, who are equally eccentric and interesting. Dave missed this one out, but he was back at home and waiting for 3 weeks on god's own rock afterwards.

Then it all went disastrously. After just over a week of lots of good ticks and making the best of bad weather, we tried Gulliver's travels on the Grand Capucin. I could retell the tale of the great form we were on, and our climbing that gave us cause to be arrogant, but when I think back to that day it is a minor detail in what was basically a totally shit day out. 'Shit' doesn't really do the day justice actually; perhaps 'horrifying' in the true sense of the word is better. In fact when I hear the word horror, I think to that day.

It was the first time I have experienced real horror I think. I have thought before that I was about to die- I have thought before that I had actually died, but this was different. Whatever pain you endure yourself is a pittance in comparison to seeing another's pain. You don't really hear a lot about how it feels to see your friend die before your very eyes. It's not a very popular subject for some reason. This might seem like exaggeration again, Luke is not only alive, but completely fine, so what the hell am I on about? I don't really know. But that old saying 'whatever doesn't kill you, makes you stronger' is complete bollocks. I may perhaps be a weak-minded individual, but I have got kind of tired of thinking my close friends are dead. Climbing is a game after all and I think climbing in the forever-melting alps is a ridiculous one.

This was then contrasted by our return to England- the magical, peaceful and fruitful valleys of the north york moors. People like to pretend that there is nothing in the UK left to explore, that there is no climbing in the Moors worth probing and developing. Maybe that's true, who knows? All I know is that the 4 weeks after the alps were some of the happiest of my life. I could climb all day with good friends, develop new crags and then go out at evenings for a lot of beer.It didn't even matter that some of the routes we put up turned out to be massive soft touches. The moors is my home. I understand the people and the rock. The faint grooves and impossible aretes inspire me. They make me happy. Recently we have also found a new crag, which promises more happy future memories, away from the terror of the alps.

Horror, horrifying and horrific. Terror, Terrifying and Terrific. The positives are rarer than pain in life and the moors is the natural spring for optimism and happiness I think.

So with every year I get closer to the perfect balance, or perhaps I am nearing total derangement? I have cause to be happy again in my life and when it comes to climbing I know that a couple of really classic new routes a year makes me a lot happier than a cohort of generic nails testpieces. Delusion on the bounty.

The Yule Return- Some New Moors Classics.

2011-12-30T19:11:00.007Z

I remember when I first started climbing it seemed as if classics had existed an eternity. They were indelibly stained into the spirit that floats around the moors. When you leave the moors for three months and then come back, even to see a classic, such as Cling Wrap (HVS 5b**) at Camp Hill, makes a big emotional stir. The idea of creating one's own moorland classic seemed banished to the realm of dreams. But now it is not. And that causes some pretty spectacular emotions.

I like to think that me and Dave have had an important role in recent years, developing new routes and large portions of lost, forgotten or unexplored crags. But my brief return from Austria for Christmas let us embark on an entirely new experience- discovering an entirely new venue, completely hidden and undiscovered.

Getting Dark on Haddock Crack (HVS 5a**) - Crag X

We have never kept the details of a crag secret before, as generally the routes are of high grades that interest few people and we can return in a short amount of time to finish off development, but with this crag secrecy is unfortunately a necessity.

There are a large number of tall cracks at moderate grades. These are neither short, nor broken, but strong lines, with sustained interest. We climbed a couple which looked the best and they were really good. On a par with Valiant (VS 5a***) at Danby.

The tale of discovery would give away it's location, but we first spotted the crag through an oblique angle and a faint glimpse of an enormous arete. It looked in every way like Dunne's Divided years and we had to keep our excitement in control as we scrambled towards it. We assumed that a 30 metre prow of sandstone would have to be sandy, loose and crappy to have been left untouched, but it wasn't. It was just ace.

It is still an unknown quantity really. We climbed a few lines and abed down six. There is a poorly protected hanging arete that will be the best route in the moors when it is climbed. 16 metres of climbing, with tricams and poor RPs. I forgot my shunt, so I'm not sure how hard it will be, but perhaps a super classic E6 or something. Another 2/3 star route to the left up the wall at E5 6a or something. 3 star highball font 7a+ arete below, with brilliant balance moves, from which all the routes on this one (of eight) buttress begin.

The best buttress is hidden and offers a 14 metre E2 and a 12 metre HVS. A poor band of rock for the first couple of metres damages their quality a bit, but the rock is then perfect and there s no danger of injury with all the protection sound.

Further to the right and left are more buttresses- still of an unknown quantity. The rock is better than Stoupe and Danby, which isn't bad anyway and the rock is generally pretty clean. So I think all that can be said is that it is about the perfect find. I'm sure there will be hard stuff there too and it seemed quite nice in a winter gale, so I suppose in summer it will be ace. A bit cold yesterday like!

The Vanishing Consistency In The Lakes Winter Debate

2011-12-09T14:06:00.011Z

The first winter ascent of 'Tell Chris Craggs Nowt' (IX 9)- The crux is topping out where summer climbers have ripped the turf off the top to provide a 'nicer' finish. The issues are clouded a bit here, as I was also the first summer ascentionist. Classic line, surprisingly not featuring in the Rockfax guide.

The recent debate about lakes winter climbing has been fairly interesting, with the same old arguments being churned out along with a few new ones. Anyone who has been following the online part of the debate will probably have seen me being one of the most vigorous 'defenders' of winter climbing on 'classic rock routes'. I don't actually have an opinion though, and I'll explain why.

The stance of the vast majority of people is either an inbuilt revulsion to the idea of ice axes being used on rock, or simply a thoughtless following of the majority-held view. This whole issue has a strange echo of the GM food or renewable energy debates- mass knee-jerk condemnation of a topic few people know anything about. I'm happy to admit that I know very little about the exact amount of damage the average winter outing up a rock route causes, but others aren't and still express their view. This willingness to forge an opinion in the complete absence of fact is what leads to such a brilliantly successful and sensationalised press- such as the News of the World, or UKC. Why don't we try and assess the issues first, before forging an opinion that could effectively end a person's sport forever.

The Jabberwock (VII 8)- Would be nice with a bit of turf on the ledge...

This in it's self sounds sensationalised, but it's true. I'm a rock climber primarily- with 4 alpine trips and about 5 winter routes under my belt I'm no Will Sim, and so people might wonder why I defend lakes winter climbers like Steve Ashworth. It's not because I intend on climbing a load of winter routes in the lakes- I'll climb a few, but i'll always be primarily a rock climber. It is because I don't believe in defending others less than myself. People will want to winter climb in the future and if we create a precedent for highly restricted winter climbing in the lakes, then that will be very hard to go back on. In short, we should give winter climbing a fair trial and stop putting our own interests first, just because we think it will only affect 'the few'. As mentioned earlier, this is the path to persecution and even genocide (although this probably won't happen in the lakes).

At this point I think we need to establish a fact that is key to this debate- the difference between gully/turf routes and technical mixed. This debate has been made far more complicated by the confusion of these two activities. There are far fewer ecological issues with technical mixed and it is fair to say it can not be practiced in many places other than on established rock routes. There are also fewer climbers interested in it. People might like to suggest that there is no need to venture onto established rock climbs, but they are wrong and it is a dead-end and at best ill-informed argument to say otherwise. So in this respect we are talking about the survival of one sport against another (technical mixed Vs. Summer)- both in need of the same routes and both clashing in their demands in this respect.

So, this brings us to the topic of consistency. Any decision I make in regard to style and ethics has to be consistent, as I have to be sure I'm taking the right path when I'm mid crux and I start to doubt myself. This means for me that simply saying 'we shouldn't climb on Gimmer in winter' won't work. If I couldn't climb on it in winter, then I wouldn't be able to climb on it in summer, unless there was a good reason. At this point people will be crying out that there 'is a good reason- winter climbing threatens to damage summer climbs irreparably'. This is true and it is one of the greatest dilemmas I faced when setting out on one of my few winter routes, but summer climbing also damages winter routes. And it's no good responding with a patronising and dismissive smirk to that point. The damage is real. So get used to that. The debate is how the damage summer climbing causes compares to the damage winter climbing causes.

This brings us back to the idea of forming an opinion without facts. Already here, the majority of readers will have made their mind up that they think this argument against summer climbing damaging winter routes, through deturfing, to be preposterous. So I ask you what evidence we have that winter climbing is more damaging to holds, than summer climbing is to turf patches. I'm open minded and consistent and am happy to change my approach to climbing depending on what evidence and ideas are presented. Repeating the old 'ice axes torqued in classic HVSs!!!' mantra won't convince me though. I know the damage of mixed climbing is real, but look at a route like the Jabberwock and tell me that summer climbing hasn't also made winter ascents 2/3 grades harder. We need consistency and we need to protect the minority of a new and vulnerable sport, from the largely-ignorant majority.

Thoughts On The Moors- And My New Book!

2011-11-22T20:46:00.008Z

Two months in to my Innsbruck purgatory and I'm starting to see things back in the moors a lot clearer- you always do when you're away for some reason. This is all project related- unclimbed lines in the moors.

There is so much, that it has started to overwhelm me and I've been attacking them with no sensible logic or reason. I've been trying to top rope moves of routes that will be H10+, whilst having lead attempts on bouldery E7s ground up. This might be an effective way to work if you're Adam Ondra; but I aint!

This unsystematic and unprofessional way of working is most fun, which is apparently what climbing is all about, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't fueled by self-ravishing (or should that be raddishing) ambition. So how to make my four months in summer (and two weeks at the start of April it's looking like) more efficient...

So there is the mono wall.... I've been getting stronger in Innsbruck, with a mega long 10 deg. overhanging traverse on tiny holds as my own little project indoors, but not strong enough to solo font 8a or whatever it is. I have also compiled a list of 40 odd things of around E6/7 to have a look at, but I'd be lying to myself if I said I didn't want to put something up in the moors next year that is 'proper hard' by anyone's standard. So this is the dilemma of the esoteric activist... Work on one project and risk doing nowt, or fail to climb something you think really represents your abilities and passion. I don't know why, but an H10 seems a lot more appetising than 15 H7s. Hopefully we'll have time for both.

This all sounds a bit anal; as if I have already decided what is going to get climbed this year and as if there is no adventure left. This isn't the case. Perhaps this is just the waffle that surrounds my brain, that is necessary to get psyched for training, or perhaps it is actually quite absent from my head during most of the week due to my new project: My Book. And before you all start to fear, it isn't a rather premature auto-biography, it's a semi instructional and hopefully mind-bending book on how to politically manipulate children. Disturbing you might say, but I assure you it will be a best seller.

Slow Motion Edit Of Tintwistle Fall

2011-11-05T21:03:00.003Z

Just for those of you who need easier access to the happy event.

Video- 3 New Moors H7s

2011-09-19T17:05:00.011+01:00

Footage of:

The fingery 'boulder problem in the sky' Die By The Sword (6c)

The great line and enduro route The White Scoop (6b)

And the wild the Waves of Inspiration (6c?)- A biscuit for the second ascentionist.

The Last Day Of The Summer- Two New H7s

2011-09-18T21:00:00.018+01:00

On Waves

We were feeling the pressure as we only had 48 hours before I emigrated to Austria and Dooge left for Uni. Because of this we nipped over to Stoupe Brow today, despite the poor forecast, in the hope that we might be able to salvage something of the remaining time we had in god's own land. I had only got to bed at half four after a heavy night in Middlesbrough, so I chilled out by belaying Dave on the old scoop project as I tried to stop myself swaying.

Waves Of Inspiration (H5 6b***)

Dave looked smooth whilst refining a few moves and soon got sorted for the lead. I had another play on a top rope, but I'd forgotten how hard it is when you don't know the sequence and was well and truly beaten. A good warm up for my own cauterised rib project though, so I wasn't too upset at my trouncing.

The White Scoop (E5 6a***)

A fair bit of a Runout

As Dave set out on lead I was way more nervous than he was, which is becoming a common theme. He calmly cruised up to and beyond the gear, making the whole thing look very easy, but on toping out we both realised that our perception of the route as something that was alright to fall off of, with just a big fall, was wrong. The pictures show clear enough the enormous run out on the buttress and despite the moderate level of climbing, (about f7b) it becomes a pretty hard overall proposition. Respect to Dooge, that's his third moors death route safely navigated and I'm happy I didn't have to do it! Class feature.

After an impressive second, considering he's only just got back into climbing, Nick then went off to try and climb a new offwidth he'd just cleaned. There seems to be some strange bonding ritual, involving offwidths, between the Warburton brothers and Nick's ascent was a classic and incredibly bold thrutching outing. Dave Managed to second more elegantly and 'The Best Of Both' (E1 5a*) was born. Top effort, unfortunately the pictures were really blurry.

A bit more of a runout...

Next it was my turn. Normally I'm really nervous before leading dangerous things and I suppose I kind of was today, but I was also really inspired by the line and just wanted to be the first person to climb the feature. It's such an amazing wall, a little short I suppose (about 10 metres at a stretch), but the climbing is really superb, with good footholds and long reaches. I left the ground and got up to the big ledge, getting the cam and tricam in (this gear is pretty good collectively) and then paused a few moments to really get in the zone.

Feeling odd after divine intervention

I then set off from the ledge in a daze and totally missed the good crimp you jump up to. Luckily I just slipped onto it and caught it with a digit and delicately caressed it. I then brought my right foot through so I could get an outside edge smear. This part is so cool, as you are really on the edge- anything could just rip off at any moment, but you are also kind of solid at the same time.

I then got the small crimp and lobbed a foot out left. It kept coming, but it all felt so easy and like it wasn't me who was climbing. It's just such a fabulously smooth and exciting wall, with move after move of exquisite desperation and all the time just feeling so floaty. This is really what I've been searching for this summer and I'm glad I've finally found it. Now just to find something a couple of notches harder next year.

The End Of The Danby Season- New Route Round Up

2011-09-16T19:57:00.020+01:00

Jack Metcalfe On 'The Jungle Drum' (E4 6a**)

I feel it wouldn't be right for me to leave for Innsbruck on Tuesday without a few words of thanks to our most beloved Danby Crag. Sitting in my kitchen with thunder and the rain pattering on the velux windows, it really does feel like the end of the Danby season. It feels like we've had a really personal relationship with this crag, partially because it has been disregarded by so many for so long as a bit of an esoteric back-water and also because we have spent so much time there. We have found it the opposite of how most view it, with it perhaps being the provider of some of the best new routes of England in 2011.

What has been special about our experience is the solitude Me, Dave, Sam, Jack, Nick and Twig have enjoyed at the crag over various days; the varying weather; the cows and the brilliant moves that we have found behind the generally thin (sometimes rather thick) veil of lichen, dirt, dust and snappy rock.

Hypocrisy Of Moose (H8 6c***)

The difficulty of many of the routes has supplied us with real entertainment, a challenge and also training, but in the grand scheme of things it is the great quality of these unclimbed lines that is the lasting memory I have from this whole experience. I hope in time many of these routes will be repeated and this quality realised and indeed the yet unclimbed quality climbing taken advantage of.

I will be away for a year, so the rest of the routes will have to wait and I kind of hope they remain unclimbed! The remaining projects are mainly harder routes of H7 and above- the two main ones being the Arete to the left of Vulcan (which I was upset at not managing to get done) and the 'mono wall', which will be utterly fantastic when it is completed. There's a great day out at this crag at any grade except for E1&E2, so come and explore one of the most generous crags in the North York Moors!

Dave On 'The Polish Diplomat' (E5 6b*)

'The Chocolate Moose' (E4 6b**)

Dave On 'Howl Psyche' (E7 6b**)

The crag originally had nothing above HVS, which instantly raised mine and Dave's suspicions as to whether there was any potential for new routing at the crag. Development began with two massive onsight lead falls off of what were to become 'The Battle For Tripoli' (E6 6a**) and 'The Hypocrisy of Moose' (H8 6c***). This led to a headpointing tactic being deployed and the creation of 'The Otter Wilderness Route' (E5 6b**) and the Hypocrisy Of Moose- Both on a buttress that had not previously been Climbed.

Dave On The Offwidth 'Stalin' (E3 5b**)

'Die By The (Pork) Sword' (H7 6c**)

Dave On An Established Route- 'Roosevelt' (VS 4c**)

The Future of Danby- The Mono Wall (H9 7aish)

We then abandoned the Crag for a year (loosing our way with alpine flirtations, slate climbing and tintwistle death routes), until I returned and found the endless potential of high quality new routes. None were quite as good as 'The Hypocrisy of Moose', but many were almost there and a few of the remaining unclimbed things are indeed up at that level of quality. Since then we have gradually picked the projects off one by one, until the list of new routes since we started our campaign is somewhat ridiculous:

Routes:
The Otter Wilderness Route (E5 6b**)
The Hypocrisy of Moose (H8 6c***)
The Jungle Drum (E4 6a**)
The Polish Diplomat (E5 6b*)
The Chocolate Moose (E4 6b*)
Howl Psyche (E7 6b**)
The Battle For Tripoli (E6 6a**)
Die By The Sword (H7 6c**)
Stalin (E3 5b**)
Roosevelt Eliminate (HVS 5a)

Bouldering:
Vulcan Bloc Arete (font 6b+**)
Marine Band Traverse (font 7a*)
The Effervescent Pheasant (font 7a***)
Palma Ham (font 6c*)

Sam On The Classic Valiant (HVS 5a***)

Gutted to not get this done- The arete left of Vulcan (E7/8 6c)

Stoupe Brow Exploration

2011-09-15T21:36:00.010+01:00

Lunar Landscape

A few photos of some projects at Stoupe Brow today. There's some extraordinary climbing to be done here and I was very pleased to find out that a blunt arete that I had assumed was impossible actually yielded to a reasonable series of moves, albeit sustained and difficult.

The Right Walls

Dooge trying some of the moves on the Blunt rib- will be about E7 7a.

Nice moves with high feet

The rib starts off with an easy pre-amble to get stood on a ledge. From here you lean over and place a small tricam and a blue camalot in the large pocket on the left. These are both pretty good. You get the big pocket with your left hand and step up near it with your left foot. A big rockover allows you to lunge for a nice crimp with your right hand and you end up in quite an unbalanced situation. You then pop up with your left hand to an ok crimp and step through with the outside edge of your right foot on a smeary thing near the pocket.

From here you lob a left foot out to an ok foot hold and then pull like mad on the crimps to jump into a nice finger-locky pocket. You could go direct from here, but I pop out left again with my left hand to a big side pull and lob my right hand into the pocket hold. You can then swing your right foot upto where your right hand just was and then rock over to another good pocket. The climbing gets a little easier now, but somewhat insecure. If you're tall you can rock up with the aid of some not very good holds to get the good crimps and a scary move up to the big top flattys, or if you're small a few more moves out right are needed to gain the same holds.

It's difficult to say where the crux is, but it's safe to say it's hardish climbing from the ledge upto the good crimpy pockets. Perhaps not quite the 'nails testpiece' I've been looking for, but it's a step in the right direction and proper class!

Pictures- Stalin Crack FA (E3 5b**)

2011-09-14T20:00:00.005+01:00

I'm way too tired to write very much about anything after today and I need to get some rest and food for tonights wildness in Yarm.... Here's some photos of Dave and Nick climbing Roosevelt (VS 4c**) and a new offwidth addition 'Stalin' (E3 5b**). Hopefully we'll get to Stoupe Brow Tomorrow to get the Scoop Led.

Die By The Sword (H5 6c**)

2011-09-14T19:26:00.012+01:00

I set out on the wall right of the 'Moose' on lead today. I was apprehensive, really feeling the mental scars left by Tintwistle and it took a fair bit of mental power to overcome the feeling that I was very much unnecessarily taking myself into a position of danger. The low gear (effectively a belay at the bottom of the route) is good, which meant that there was scarcely any danger of death, but a fair danger of a bad fall into spikes and cracks. I had briefed Nick (Dave's Brother) on the necessary course of action in the event of a fall- up until the crux, just hold the fall; from the crux until the top, run like hell and jump off the lower cliff.

Nick was in the right spirit and before I knew it I was reaching out of the very bottom of Bastile (HS) and traversing up towards the sloping shelf. From here you can shake out and get ready for the crux, check your feet are clean and precariously place the left on a good smear and the right in a blind and tiny pocket. You can now reach a very positive and very small crimp with the right and pop into a left pinch, hoping that your feet stick and you don't fly backwards onto the rocks and ledges.

Once stable you then launch your feet onto the ledge with the 'woodlouse attack move'. It's such a funny move and you end up all bunched up in the middle of this wall facing a massive fall. Now you can turn the pinch into an undercut and span for dear life to the good crimps and a few more scary moves lead to safety. Short and sweet!

I had originally thought this was going to be H8, but I realised I was kidding myself by not using the crack which you climb out of at the start for very low gear and a running belayer. Due to the steepness of the ground I reckon a fall from the first hard move would only result in a nasty swing into the wall of the Hypocrisy Of Moose (H8 6c), so not worthy of H8 despite its hard moves. One of the best set of moves I've ever done though, with lots of popping for small crimps, wild foot throws and a big undercut reach to the top.

Celebratory Helmet Conversion.

This route means that the Twin Arete's butress is now home to 33 Egrades and 11 stars! Stage one of the Danby development is complete.

Nick Dixon- "What Will Be, Will Be"

2011-09-11T21:51:00.012+01:00

A gusty day out at Round Crag today, finally ticking off Mr Crowe's Round Crag beauty 'Farndale Fayer'. I'm pretty divided about my opinion on this route, as part of me thinks it's just a blind highball above an atrocious landing and another part of me thinks it's a great testpiece which is brilliantly brutal and short. Either way it is a serious route and the moves are superb.

It is very typical of Round Crag, with what appears a pitifully small route offering a great sequence of moves that leave a lasting impression. The crag is littered with these desperates, which can often be most pleasant to lead after inspection or top rope practice, but are in another world to onsight lead or solo.

Of the ten or so routes at round crag above the grade of E5, there are a mere two runners that would be likely to hold a fall from the crux of a route; which tells you everything you need to know about the style of climbing here- apart from that once on a route, they are often so steep that there is scarcely enough resting opportunities to chalk-up, never-mind consider rescue or retreat.

So after our interest on Steve Crowe's fine line, I turned my attentions to one of only four routes I am left to do at the crag- Scut de Scun ai (Japanese for 'what will be will be'), which has not been led since its FA in 2002 and the subsequent loss of holds. I've felt the moves before and quickly linked them today on a shunt. It is often stated by climbers trying unrepeated routes or others' testpieces that they "have linked the moves and just need to get it wired for the solo", but I'd like to stress that a route like Scut de Scun ai is hardly your average route in terms of protection and I feel being able to do the moves is a long way from being able to climb it.

Its shallow scoop offers zero protection and maximum exposure, with the slabby-looking wall actually pushing you right out above perhaps the worst fall imaginable. A crucial hold was broken off by Steve Ramsden last year, which now means that the entire second half of the route must be climbed by what I imagine is a way harder sequence. This wasn't the fault of Steve Ramsden, but rather the nature of the rock, which halted Steve Crowe in his original efforts to make the first ascent- handing his 'unjustifiably snappy project' over to Nick Dixon. Since then the rock has calmed down and is now as solid as the rest of the routes at the crag, but at the time Dixon had already climbed the Indian Face on Cloggy and his approach to dangerous routes was made obvious once again in the christening of Crowe's death project "What will be will be".

To be on that scoop (notice the choice of 'on' rather than in), with a now harder sequence than that encountered by Dixon coming up and all the history of the FA of this line would be a real dream for me. But for now I feel I must leave it, with my Erasmus year in Innsbruck fast approaching and too many projects in the local area already to complete. Great route though.

And here's a little video of the Web (E5 6a**) and a strange variation of the English 6c traverse 'Flower Power' without the use of carved holds. The font grades given are a load of tosh from Dave- it is a plain floating English 6c/7a.

Highcliffe Testpieces And A New E4

2011-09-01T18:04:00.011+01:00

Curious Intrigue FA E4 5c*

Dooge's birthday today, so for his birthday treat we went up to highcliffe nab. Excellent place, which is currently being cleaned by locals after the felling of all the trees up there that ruined the north end of the crag.

We started out with a mooch up 'Ping' (E1 5c*), which we both thought was excellent and deserving of more stars. I suggested to Dooge that in a clean state (which it's in after our cleaning) it might actually be HVS 5b, but we were unsure. Dave then got on the route he really had his eye on- Magic In The Air (E7 6b***). He abed down and placed the pre-clipped side runners which reduce the grade to E5 and got up it in impressive style. Dooge is going quite well at the moment. I was trying not to look too much and didn't want a go with side runners attempting to save my attempt for the coveted first onsight solo ascent of the line! I reckon this will have to wait a good few years like... it looks terrifying!

Ping HVS 5b**

After this I abed down a desperate looking slab that was pretty dirty. I cleaned off the dirt and found that it really was desperate- too desperate! My annoyance was interrupted by Dave informing me that the left arete of the wall hadn't been climbed, so I turned my attentions to this. A quick clean and a sequence became apparent. An uneventful solo was actually quite enjoyable and 'The Curious Intrigue' (E4 5c*) was born. No idea about the grade or staring. Often you spend so long abing or shunting something that the moves just seem to appear and the concept of onsight difficulties or quality just fade away; fade to grey... I loved it though, with cool layback, a couple of very high feet and some brilliant smearing. Hopefully it will get repeated before it turns back to nature.

The Day was finished off by trying to put up a line to the right of Desperate Den (E6 6c***) above pads. Den himself is pretty desperate (unsurprisingly), but the attempted line tackles the blanker wall to the right above the memorial inscription to Ian. I think he'd like the idea of his wall being home to a future 7a desperate. All but the last move figured out at the moment, but I will need more skin. It's a real testpiece like, quite eliminate.

High Crag Classics- Photos

2011-08-31T23:37:00.008+01:00

Kestrel Crack - HVS 5b**

Warrior- E2 5c***

A good day out for Sam, but unfortunately the rain meant that exploration was limited to abseil cleaning and chalking of future new routes to try. This slab in particular looks like it should offer a couple of very thin and bold moves...

Video- Effervescent Pheasant FA- Font 7a***

2011-08-29T22:38:00.003+01:00

BEAUTIFUL PROBLEM!

Danby New Routes- Howl Psyche (E7 6b**) and The Battle For Tripoli (E6 6a*)

2011-08-29T18:40:00.013+01:00

Howl Psyche FA (E7 6b**)

Me and Dave were both tired today, with aching tips and general body fatigue. A 'relaxed trip to Danby' was decided on to refine our projects. I'd taped my fingers up a lot to prevent further wear, as climbing was becoming almost impossible. This made The Vulcan arete impossible so we got to work on the Twin Aretes buttress, where two unclimbed lines remained- The direct to the otter wilderness route and The groove to the left, which I had taken a large factor two whipper off a couple of years ago with no gear. Neither routes had any gear, so it was time to get our bold shoes on.

Dave shunted the direct to the otter wilderness route a couple of times and said he felt sorted for the solo. I had had a look at this, but was put off by the crux, which is quite pumpy and relies on a heel hook on a smear- Dave insists this is bomber, but I have my doubts. Long story short, Dave went for the solo and cruised the line. the camera ran out of battery mid-route, but luckily I had Dave's camera as well- quite fortunate as I don't think Dave would have wanted to do it again! Great solo from Dave, the fall is horrific-about 20 metres through some trees and onto rocks and the moves are tricky.

Bad feet

Keen to complete the development of Twin aretes Buttress I had a look at 'The Jungle Groove'. I had taken a massive fall off this at a CMC meet and hadn't got on it again since. It is just to the left of 'Howl Psyche' and traverses into the top of this route at the top of the groove (at about 8 metres). The move onto the sloping shelf on 'Howl Psyche' is really gripping, about as terrified as i've ever been, relying on gastons and smears to get onto blind holds. I opted for the lead as, whilst there is no gear, the bottom moves are quite tricky and a factor two is better than falling all the way down into the caves. I've obviously already soloed the 'Otter wilderness Route' (E5 6b**) and shunted 'Howl Psyche' (E7 6b**), so I knew where the blind holds were and the top intimately. Ground upish, but a true onsight of this would be about the scariest experience in the moors! Alas, I had to choose a belayer instead of a photographer.

Crux

Grade, Grades, Grades.... Howl Psyche is harder than 'Fresh Arete' (E7 6b) and The Moors E5s and E6s we've done , so E7 to lead. I certainly wouldn't fancy a lead! Dave suggested it was easy to headpoint, maybe H6, but doing it ground up would be insane. Similarly, Onsighting 'The battle for Tripoli' would be ridiculous- it was bloody scary when I knew where the holds were, but onsight would be out of this world- almost E7 6a!

The day was finished by the discovery of one of the best boulder problems we've ever found- a great arete (Video to Come). These brilliant days are becoming something we expect now... I love the moors! :)

Video- Mane Vision Ground Up FA (E5 6c)

2011-08-29T11:06:00.001+01:00

Mane Vision E5 6c, Round Crag. Ground up FA from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

A Wild Day Out- The Ground Up Project Goes With A Fight- Mane Vision E5 6c**

2011-08-28T16:04:00.013+01:00

Sam Marks in a 'Wicked Willieesque' position

A truly wild day up at Blakey today with Sam and Dooge. The wind was up and Round Crag was not that pleasant-a-place to be. The line up the centre of lion buttress still looked ominously unticked and despite being determined to climb it, I had some worries about my totally wrecked tips and the inevitable bloody battle that would be required for a successful ascent.

Dave had a go at it, as he was slightly less beaten by it and had a bit more tip thickness to play with. The same high point was reached again and again, each time met with a little more desperation until he finally gave in.

Rocking up to the Micro Crimp

After a brief bouldering interlude, with Sam climbing two fine new problems on the lower boulders, it was my turn to get on the 'Blakey ripper'. Time after time I launched for the final sloping hold and on one occasion I very nearly held it, alas it was not meant to be.

I handed over to Dooge and Sam again, who struggled at first, but then Dave got a different look about him- quite confident and balanced. He stood a moment on the crux and repositioned himself. And then the vision of Dooge came forth and suddenly it looked very promising. He managed to get the remnants of the micro-spike, that had smashed last night, as a terrible gaston and he stayed on. There was only a couple of moves left now and he wasn't coming off. Straight up to the big sloping crimp and then a little move out right before the victorious mantel. He'd done it!

Sam Approaching the Crux Micro Crimp

I was pretty happy for dooge, but also felt the pressure now and was slightly upset that my huge leap was seemingly unnecessary. I tentatively stepped up for the lead and quickly got to the gear and clipped it. Up again with my now bleeding tips, I crushed the tiny hold into submission. An off-balance foot movement and I could move into the same sandy gaston. I was on the Edge of the Edge in a truly wild setting. The hold felt bad and my fingers felt worse, but I'd lost too much ego to this route already. I big move out right, all technique lost and I held the sloping hold. YES! A bit of a worrying moment up top, with the exposed mantle and a fair bit of rope out, but I was safe and the beast had finally been tamed.

Video to come...

Battle Scars

o and grade etc. Dave's sequence turned out to not be that hard, like not 7a hard, so we thought E5 6c was bang on. Certainly a big step up from the classic well protected 6bs, like peak E4s and atomic, but not as hard as stuff like Windows of Perception (E6 7a) (almost a shame Dave found this sequence..). A great testpiece none-the-less with some excellent moves and our search for a totally desperate moors testpiece continues. I really enjoyed this, but watch ya shins on the fall!

Bleeding Fingers Or Not...

2011-08-28T11:08:00.002+01:00

The 'leaping cougar' is going down today.

A Quick Evening Of Contest, Ground Up

2011-08-27T23:51:00.008+01:00

After a day of rain me and Dooge were keen to take advantage of a brief sunny spell an hour before it got dark. A couple of days of heavy rain had rendered the possibility of dry cragging unlikely, but we reckoned Lion Buttress might go, with its impermeable weathered outer service and its westerly aspect. Hopefully we could try the thing I'd fallen off in the dark the other night; an unclimbed wall with bomber gear at half-height.

We rushed to the crag and found it perfectly dry. RAD. Keen not to be climbing in the dark again and optimistic that it would be nice and easy in the light, I geared up and got the bomber kit in with perfect ease- I love placing gear when you know just how to place it, so satisfying.

With my 'bomb shelter' now in position, I rocked over with that familiar ease, a world away from onsight, but still not quite at home with my position. I got the tiny razor dish with my right and muddled around with my feet in the break, desperately trying to get them into a position that felt comfortable. A vague move to a hold I thought would be quite good was met by horrifying sharpness and I plummeted below.

"Damn, that was harder than I thought it would be."

Up again and this time really feeling the power, determined to just crimp the tiny right-hand hold to dust and statically move to the strange micro-spike. I do just this and it's in the bag. I get the little left hand edge and hold my position, just one final move out right. The move out right is a slap to a larger sloping hold which is pretty poor, but I'm going to get it- this route has had enough of my skin and I can hang it. Then BANG, the micro-spike rips. Shit.

Down at the bottom again and I'm almost laughing at how much of a fight this has become. Secretively I'm quite pleased it's ripped, if it hadn't it would have been done and that would have been my and the route's relationship over and I would have branded this wall 'E5 6c**' and into memory it would have gone. But no, it's not only pushed me off, but it's almost re-written the rule book of our contest. That hold was crucial and it's going to be a silly leap now.

I go up and down a few more times, slapping right; nearly holding the poor hold on one occasion, but most of the time just falling increasingly bigger distances.

The route is still up there- triumphant for the moment, but i will be back and I will have my best jumping shoes on for our next meet.

CHEESE

2011-08-26T22:14:00.005+01:00

Sometimes you get so into Moors new routing you forget what you're fighting for. It pays dividends to take a moment and really enjoy those real Yorkshire delights that are our cheese varieties- like good old cheddar.

New Routing By Night

2011-08-25T23:41:00.006+01:00

Classic E1 5c*- Twin Cracks- Round Crag

We had a rather interesting evening at Round Crag- setting off at sevenish.

Kitten- VS 5a* (getting Dark)

Out with Dave and his brother Nick, we had a reet good time on a couple of seldom-climbed classics.

A great time to embark on a new route onsight.....

I then fancied a ganda at an unclimbed wall on the same buttress, but due to the lack of light donned a headtorch.

Entering the Crux.

I luckily found some good gear, but the tiny dishes and hidden crimps up high pushed me off again and again.

A bit of a fall..

We'll be back in the light. I was pretty close in the end and reckon the final move will be 6b/c and pretty much super safe. A great testpiece and of a style unknown to the moors.

Danby Failings

2011-08-20T13:10:00.008+01:00

small, wet, horrible crimp

All has been going so well recently I forgot what a true beating by the crag feels like.

Yesterday we ventured to Danby crag; keen for a go at the first ascent of one of the best unclimbed lines in the moors. I'd already high-balled out the start and worked the last desperate move on a shunt, so was optimistic I could link the two bits together and work out the 'big jump' in between ground up.

Boulder start done

I managed the first bit of boulder problem, which is an agonising reachy pull to a thin edge (currently a bit damp), but then fell off on an easy move higher up. I then couldn't do the start move again and ripped a tip. Balls!

Angered with wrecked tip

I'm not sure whether the ultra-thin, painful, slightly damp nature of this route makes it all the more classic (as you can't work the moves very much and can only try moves ground up a few times), or whether it is just highly irritating and a bit spoilt by the bastard little holds.

Ah well, the line is still there and a long bath to regenerate my tips will see me right, for when the route is properly dried out again. A good bit of failure never hurt anyone!

Upset

Honey Arete Onsight E5 6b***

2011-08-18T18:28:00.008+01:00

Gripped

Dave is now a Danby detractor, so we had to be inventive with a limping car and only a few local crags. The crag of choice was no surprise: Round Crag- an easy 6 miles away and packed with moderate testpieces (hard for the moors).

I've been really stoked to try and onsight Honey Arete for a while now, as Steve Ramsden worked it and said it was very good and it's a really nice line. I remembered it looking highball-able and my style of climbing- balancy arete climbing.

Alas we arrived to find a very tall arete that looked like it needed quite a compressiony sequence. I climbed up and down a bit, with rests in between attempts, eventually getting the balls to got for the crux. It was quite tricky, with really high smeary feet and big slopey sidepulls for hands. I got onto the good foothold and chilled out.

Dave had cleaned the route and at this point, (about as high as I could have possibly jumped off) I was pretty happy he had. A swing rightwards around the arete and the top was insight, right after I smeared on some of the scariest footholds of the moors.

I was pretty gripped, a bomber crimp with my right hand the only comfort and the usual exuberant topout yelping was replaced by silence as I calmed myself down and celebrated ascending one of the best routes in the moors in a really fitting style. There's been some chat about this being E6 I think, which I can understand, but perhaps it's just hard E5?

I was most chuffed and the day was topped off by Dave's cool ascent (after a little inspection) and a top rope of 'Scut', the E6 which has become harder since the loss of holds.

Snotterdale Video- Snotterdictomy Onsight FA (E4 6a**)

2011-08-18T01:59:00.004+01:00

Snotterbad Little Movie... from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

Snotterdale Video- Wizard's Prow (font 6c*), Snotterdictomy (E4 6a**), Sixth Sense (E3 6a*) and Lady Of The Lake (font 6b**)

Snotterbad Day- A New E4 And Some New Bouldering

2011-08-17T19:29:00.009+01:00

The Wizard's Prow Font 6c*

We needed a change of scene- away from Danby and in some new surroundings. Dave also fancied getting on some easier stuff that we could try and onsight, or quickly do after a clean on ab, so off we went to Snotterdale.

The first thing we found was a brilliant little boulder prow that we warmed up on at Font 6c. Some of the nicest rock I've ever climbed on, with brilliant big undercuts and pinches of excellent frictiony rock. This got us in good spirits, so I went about trying to onsight an unclimbed hanging crack on the main crag, which I've been wanting to try for a while.

The Unnamed Hanging Crack E4 6a**

The line was good, with an inaccessible crack above a thin horizontal break offering adequate gear. From here you contort around a bit and get into the thing from the left. Dave offered to clean the line, but I quite liked the idea of the challenge of a dirty route- scraping a kinfeblade peg down the crack to try and find a hold mid-crux is always exciting!

It was nice to get a little gripped again and whilst topping out with a perfect big camalot, I was surprised how similar the climbing was to 'Gym Junkies' (E3 6a ***) at Ingleby Incline. Although the move getting into the crack was harder and the gear a little more suspect, it is of a really similar height and climbing style. I'm determined not to be soft in my grading anymore, so I think 6a is fair and E4 accurate. It's Certainly not E5, but it seems harder than the Jungle Drum or 'Sixth Sense', the E3 6a* to the left.

Dave had cleaned Sixth Sense and he went about effectively onsighting it. It looked scary and good, so I had a go at flashing it. I'm glad I had the confidence from Dave just doing it, as the top moves are really quite balancy and it's a solo! A typical Moors E3 6a- bold and with a crux at the top... It did feel E3, maybe it could be E4 to onsight rather than flash, but it must be soft 5c rather than 6a, or it would have felt E5 above that fall. Another hidden gem though- well good.

The Lady of The Lake Font 6b **

We then warmed down on a new boulder arete that was a right monster route and about font 6b. Alas the Midges came...

Palma Ham- Font 6c/ E2 6b- New Problem

2011-08-15T20:45:00.003+01:00

A new slab- cleaned by Dave.... Once it drys out, it'll be another classic!

Danby Video

2011-08-15T09:38:00.001+01:00

Another Danby day out, with Franco, Dave and Jack from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

The Finger V11- The Video

2011-08-15T00:09:00.000+01:00

Finally!

Metcalfe Destroys Danby!

2011-08-14T20:18:00.010+01:00

I invited my chum Jack Metcalfe up from Manchester to come and try our new routes and problems and get a tastes of Moors' new routing. We took him to Danby, keen for our recent new routes to be repeated, armed with four pads.

He cooly warmed up by onsighting The Jungle Drum, the classy arete that has now settled at E4 6a**, confirming both it's grade and quality- suggesting if it was a bit longer it could be 3 stars. Me and Dooge were happy, so we pointed him at the very new 'Chocolate Moose', which I had given E5 6c**. Thankfully he fell off, saving the few strands of my Ego that remained, but after a couple more falls on to the ocean of mats he got up to the glorious jug with impressive ease. Dooge then repeated the line and they both suggested that a grade of E4 6b*** would be more appropriate.

I doubted their suggestion, until I then also cruised the line with considerably more ease and less panic than the other day and conceded that my testpiece was actually a path.

We finished the day, attacked by midges up at Stormy Hall, where perhaps the most impressive feat of the day occurred- Jack's flash of Body Torque Font 7a+/7b+. A final sit start to the angry woodlouse finished a great day and perhaps we might have a new Moors convert.

It was interesting to have his perspective, which has helped us sort out our new routes and get an outside perspective on how routes in the area settle in terms of difficulty. It's very odd how something that originally feels E6 can turn out to be E4 and how the deploying of pads can actually make a line into a superb highball, rather than a mediocre route.

Progress was also made on the arete to the left of Vulcan, with only another session of cleaning and working the top needed before a lead attempt me thinks.

Video- The Finger V11

2011-08-14T01:35:00.005+01:00

Unfortunatley my editing software went mental. It still has the footage of my successful ascent, but cut out 5 minutes of other video. It also says '1st go' when I do it, but that shouldn't be on the video.... I need to sort it out- a proper video will be up soon.

The Finger- Steve McClure's V11 7a

2011-08-13T15:52:00.004+01:00

My padless attempt the other day

With another disappointingly drizzly day, me and dooge got out to the Wainstones. Our psyche was low whilst walking up in warm, clammy rain and arriving at the crag to find the whole place rather uninspiring.

I was stoked though, fueled by ego and excited at the prospect of ticking my first V11. I'm a pretty poor boulderer and the illusive 'font 8a' was always the part of the '8s challenge' I thought I'd find hardest.

I'd had a feel of Steve's 'the Finger' the other day without mats and it seemed like it would go, so I tricked Dave into coming back with two pads. I got spat off it at first as I hadn't warmed up, but after a couple of pull ups and some creative thinking from Dave in regard to launching for an undercut rather than the top I got it. I was pretty happy.

It was always the problem that was never really feasible and although it is most likely soft for the grade, it always looked impossible and getting up the impossible is what really excites me. A happy day for me to walk in the footsteps of Steve McClure, with the unclimbed sit start looking appetising...

Video to come

Ramsden's Font 7b+s

2011-08-12T21:50:00.006+01:00

I've recently done a couple of Ram man's moors problems- For Lichtenstein and Body Torque. Both good fun and fine problems. I also had a single look at Ste mac's V11 at the Wainstones 'the finger', which I reckon I could do if I get back with pads in the light.Body Torque- I found this quite hard

The Finger- I will be back

This weather is kind of irritating, but Danby will dry- here's dooge on the Otter wilderness direct today- abandoned due to possible damage in the wet...

FA- Chocolate Moose E5 6c ** and a Cat!

2011-08-09T14:52:00.013+01:00

I was getting some serious withdrawal symptoms after being away from Danby crag for over two weeks- the Triassic jungle, the beautiful white cliffs and abundance of wildlife (lit by a sun disrupted by ancient oaks).

Me and rex fancied a quick hit, to get the 'E5 6c' arete done. Great conditions, so I had another ab down and cleared some dangerous roots away and went for the solo.

There's a sharp hold just on the crux that hurts a fair bit, but apart from that it's a real joy to climb. The top few moves are really good- big 'boshy' stretches on perfect holds.

The grade is a tricky one. It might be 6c- it's like a 6b move, but with a really insecure fingery bit in the middle. It's also quite safe- you could break an ankle perhaps as the ground is steep and a bit rocky, but with enough pads, spotters and rolling it could be a cool Font 7a? problem. My knackered old mat could certainly have been better placed. Top draw of its genre anyway.

We also found a cat...

Rebecca called him Chocolate Moose- hence the name....

Voyage de Anguish- Grand Capucin

2011-08-05T09:03:00.017+01:00

The Grand Cap- Copyright Jon Griffith

(Spot the people on the snow approach)

Luke proposed a plan that seemed irresistible- go out to Chamonix and try all the hardest classic rock routes we were yet to do. So we arrived at the end of July in a world of rain and Snow, with Luke also being destroyed from driving without rest from the UK, avoiding the motorways... A rest day was needed.

After being beaten off by some sketchy snow slopes on the approach to the American Beauty, a very steep route with apparently 'the best F7c crack in chamonix', we sat down and decided what we were really psyched for. The same old routes were circled around and around, finally deciding that for our main objective we needed some acclimatisation and a bit of a warm up on the Grand Capucin.

The route of choice was obvious- Voyage de Gulliver (or Gulliver's Travels). This was the rock route to try and free climb in the chamonix area, with tales of the sponsored hero Tim Emmett failing to free it. So after missing the last lift; having to break into luke's car; a crap sleep and then a long walk across the Valle Blanche, we had our reservations when we looked up at the impressively steep wall of the Grand cap.

Our route was not that obvious and our topo was terrible. After some very composed and impressive climbing from luke, with moves of UAII VII+ protected by terrible slings over zenoliths a long way away, we got back on route and Luke 'graciously' gave me the 'nice E1 pitch' as I was feeling pretty knackered.

The fine undercutting crack was viable up and around the corner; with padding feet in a great exposed position. This would have been the best E1/2 in the peak, were it in a less extreme location and led to a bolt below a blank wall. From here I looked about and couldn't see any way through the blank surroundings, certainly not at E1 anyway. I was getting quite pumped now, without the best of feet and the last holds of the cracks remaining my island of security for a couple of minutes. I could see a crack out left and a bolt above this. So off I went.

The great thing I love about alpine climbing is how there is so little time- you are often in a wild position, you are gripped and you can't see how to do the moves ahead. Despite this you continue, where normally you may downclimb or slump on the rope, this failure will not achieve anything in the grand scheme of getting to the top of the grand cap. So this forces you to keep moving, often surprising yourself by getting further than you think you ever could do.

The Swiss Route- Copyright Oscar Lopez

I burst out left, feet on poor holds and fingers on crimps that definitely would not feel usable, were it not for the recent Danby crag training. O, how I miss Danby crag as I swing out of control into this wild crack; 500 metres above the glacier and 3,700 metres above pure air. A real fight with every cam being a battle to place in this flared monstrosity. I continue for another 20 metres on easier cracks, but I'm so pumped I nearly come off again and again. Composition and mind control. I get to a bolted belay with a happy Spanish chap attached and shout 50 metres down to Luke that I'm safe. The Spaniard abs off and Luke congratulates me on freeing the crux pitch and linking it with the two pitches either side.

"Typical Luke !" I thought- failing to mention that the logical extension of your 'easy crack pitch' was a high altitude finger searing battle into the unknown.

We continue now, with mania suppressed by exhaustion, climbing the final three UIAA VIII pitches with panting breath. We then encountered the final two VS/HVS pitches, which are wet and unappetising. We're not that fussed as we have climbed some of the best pitches of our lives and a wet mooch to the top seems like a poor way to finish a day, which has been such a great success. So we abseil off. We have a good belay and Luke leads the way, off to find the next belay about 55 metres down.

Small pieces of ice have fallen down the face all day, with the odd little piece stinging your hand and keeping you slick. Then something all together larger comes down.

"ICE!!!" I shout, but panic is in control- these things always miss.

Luke has swung out right and there is a small bulge between me and him. I see the volley of ice fly at terminal velocity to his exact position behind the bulge.... A massive bang as some ice hits the rock and some ice hits something else. A slight pause before an unconscious figure swings out into space below me. FUCK!

Time seems to evapourate in this panic-stricken and red sun-baken environment, but Luke eventually begins to rouse. His murmurs are less consoling than if he had remained unconcious. Thoughts of prussicing down on the tight rope to him are replaced with the possibility of him getting himself out of a a position where he is at risk of suspension trauma. I shout to him, trying to be clear, but still not clear enough. In the mean time some people on another route have seen the incident and have phoned 112, calling across that a helicopter is coming.

By some luck, Luke had swung back to an old bolt and he clipped himself in. I abseil the 50 metres faster than I have ever abseiled and arrive at a horrific scene. There is blood everywhere and Luke is evidently in a lot of pain. A crap cam is the only back up for this old bolt and I really dont want to abseil off with both of us swinging from it. I set up a rope to lower him off, but in my haste don't pull the ab ropes properly and one gets stuck. Now with one 60 metre rope I try again and again in vein to get him to put his weight onto me, but the ice fall has justifiably terrified him in his concussed state and he, like me to a large extent, wants to just curl up in the corner and feel safe.

A helicopter comes, but the cliff is guarded by overhangs and a helicopter has been lost here before. I have to get Luke down, but the only way is to ab with him attached to me dangling above the vertical face. I set up my thirty metres of rope and tie a knott in the end. I push Luke off and he screams in agony. It's been a while since he got hit now and the adrenaline is wearing off. The belay is bad and alone on the rope I would have been scared. We reach the knott and twenty stone is suddenly on the bolt. I then have to swing us left, desperately clawing on sidepulls to get to the corner of the Swiss route. A better ledge is reached, but the helicopter comes and goes again, each time freezing us with updraft in the now setting sun.

I'm scared now. I'm scared that Luke is acting so oddly and that a glacier won't be passable in Katanas with a seriously injured person. The clouds are rolling in too, risking an end to rescue attempts. I keep abseiling, each time Luke's weight making swinging very difficult. Finally after a few hours, a helicopter manages to get close enough to signal that one more abseil should put us in a rescuable position.

Luke then swings around the prussic loop and the last abseil is a test of finger strength- desperately crimping the prussic loop down the rope and just wanting the whole experience to be over. The ledge is reached with wrecked tendons and the chopper comes back, eventually swinging a gendarmerie guy onto our ledge. He prepares Luke and they swing him out across the Valle Blanche. I am relieved to just have myself to think about now and thoughts of worry for him are put to the back of my mind as I begin the rest of the abseiling as he is flown to intensive care.

With worries of walking across the Valle Blanche in rock shoes growing with the cloud cover, I am pleased when a gap opened in the mist, allowing a chopper to get in and give me one of the best trips available in Chamonix, but only after retrieving most of our gear. I'm very impressed by the madness and professionalism of the Gendarmerie and the Resilience of Luke's body- already out of hospital and walking about on Tramadol, psyched for moors new routing, some CT scans and a new helmet.

Danby Bouldering Video

2011-07-24T01:18:00.001+01:00

Bouldering at Danby Crag from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

A few odd episodes...

Danby Projects and New Clemmitt's Font 7b

2011-07-23T23:38:00.008+01:00

Just a few pictures of some of the danby Projects and a new problem I managed today.Managed this from sit today.
An arete Lee graded Font 6b from sit. I found this quite hard.
Twin aretes buttress- The Moose is the centre arete, with a project at about E6 up the overhang and the left arete and another crappy project up the wall to the right...
The Mono Wall- not a great line, but good, difficult climbing with a crux on the smooth top wall.
Where it's at- The west of the Ravine. The triangular arete is the best line as a boulder problem (Font 7bish) into a necky sequence at English 6cish. The near arete is a surprisingly difficult highball (Linked at Font 7a+ish) and in between is a futuristic blunt arete, which I can't quite do. Seems quite hard, with appalling feet.

A Mega Moors Day Out- A New Buttress

2011-07-21T23:36:00.011+01:00

The New Buttress- 'Battersby Bastion'

After a heavy night in Yarm we headed out to Crag x, only a couple of hundred metres east of Turkey Nab.

Perfect Position, only a few Metres from Turkey

On arrival I realised I was still a bit drunk, so Dooge got to lead the plum groove up the centre of Buttress. As there were only two of us Dooge opted for me to take pictures rather than belay, which meant he should have probably just soloed...

One Of Our Better New Routes

I seconded and then added a direct start, which was kind of interesting, but the difficulty was out of kilter from the rest of the route. With an E2 5b and E2 6a, there is only the arete to the left to do now. This looks like it will be a spicy E4/5.

Deep Bog

It was quite windy and I was cold, so we opted for a walk south, towards the equator and Rudd Scar and Botton head. It had a real feel of exploration, with large distances across rugged terain. It's pretty wild up there! We found some interesting rock, a mine addit and a pinnacle, which unfortunately looked like it offered only poor climbing. Rudd looks kind of promising though.

The Pinnacle

First of Many

It was now getting late, so we descended straight down, through bog and thick trees to gain a track and back to Bank Foot. From here we went for a fourth crag of the day- Potter's Quarry, Capt. Cooks area. We had a good hour on the old classics and found some of them pretty spicy!

5b apparently...

Dooge on Borboletta

A top notch day really- Cheers Dooge!

A New Problem at Clemmitt's

2011-07-16T02:32:00.006+01:00

Me, Dooge and Lee got out to Clemmitt's tonight for a brief evening on some new aretes. We did a couple of new things that were actually very enjoyable. Grades in the low Font 7s. The highlight was probably an arete that took us a fair few goes to get from crouch. We manged to do the sit, but were too tired to link it into the rest of the route. Top problem though.
Lee also showed me some old maps to the area, which are really interesting. There are some amazing 19th century names for some of the local crags.

Danby Pictures and Another New Route

2011-07-04T12:21:00.014+01:00

Dooge on a New Route

The Jungle Drum E5 6b**

Another venture to Danby Crag yesterday with Dooge and Sam. Dave led a line he'd previously had a look at and cleaned and I recovered from a hangover.

A Project E7 6cish

Eventually the headache went and I abed down another one of the projects and held a couple of the moves on a shunt. The bottom of the arete is going to have to be done above pads and looks like a nice font 7b arete problem. Once the flat hold at half height drys, the next bold move will be ok, followed by a really hard and wild top. Really nice line.

The Polish Diplomat E5 6b- Dave ripping his tip on a razor hold....

The polish diplomat is a proud wall to the right of The Jungle Drum. It ascends a line of weakness that looks slabby, but actually becomes quite strenuous once time is spent placing gear. I had tried to onsight the route, but out of practice with trad onsighting and encountering some dusty holds I retreated from only a few inches from the top- the crux. Dave abed the line and gave it a good clean, figuring out how to do the top move and finding a placement for another valuable 00 cam. The lead was quite tense considering the previous laid-back atmosphere and it looked gripping at the top, when the reach seemed to last forever. He gave it E5, thinking the top move was 6a/b, although I reckon that could be a little stiff. Perhaps I'll get the opportunity to make the first flash ascent and form an opinion myself. It all depends on how bomber the cams below turn out to be.

The Perfect Chair

Dooge

Valiant MHVS 5a ***

Sam managed to link The Jungle Drum on a shunt and then went about leading the stiff VS 5a Valliant. Top class route this, well deserving its stars. He seems psyched for Danby, which is great as me and Dave are getting a bit old for this game now...

A strange compilation of short videos and pictures:

The Jungle Drum E5 6b ** FA

2011-07-02T20:14:00.004+01:00

After another little clean of the Danby arete today, it was ready for a lead and it was tip top. The arete is only 8 or 9 metres tall, but it packs a lot into this relatively short height and offers a brilliant finish on smears and flutings. Me and Twig had previously thought it would be E6 6c, but Dave found a better sequence for the start and the crux at 2/3 height is actually quite well protected by a double zero cam, which we had previously missed. Grade was pretty irrelevant though, as the climbing was top notch, only a shame that it doesn't continue for a few more metres.

Dave then had a look at the bold wall to the right on a shunt, which looked hard and safe, but was actually tricky and bold. I had a go at onsighting it, getting only a hold from the top, but that's the crux and I promptly downclimbed- glad I didn't fall onto the cams. Dave nearly went for the lead, with the knowledge of how to do the final move, but decided against it due to the sweaty conditions. It's not the worlds greatest route, but it has a hard balancy pull of around english 6b above poorish gear. Maybe this will get done tomorrow...

The day was rounded off with a couple more abseils down some uninspected lines on the far right of Danby. The 'E3 5c arete' seemed more like E6 6c, which was quite funny; and the 'E4 6b blunt arete to the left' turned out to be closer to E7/8 7a, with a ridiculously desperate final move above a crag-height fall. It's all very exciting and Doogie seemed quite impressed by the quality of Danby new routing.

Pictures to come

Another Arete Found At Danby...

2011-06-28T17:40:00.002+01:00

I seem to be spending all my time at Danby Crag these days and I'm quite happy about it too. The wild Jungle below only adds to the exploratory feel and I'm still finding new nooks and crannys with unclimbed lines and dense undergrowth all the time.

Today I returned with twig, after a day at camp hill with the hull crew and Sam. I lowered twig off a crappy stake and he had a look at the latest arete. It was a brief look and we figured out the moves and cleaned bits and bobs until a grade estimate could be made. The start was the crux at 6b/c, but with another 6b move at half height by a cluster of OK gear. Top quality laybacking up the fluted arete then follows. As soon as we get back with some half ropes this should offer an ace E6.

I gave twig a choice of around ten other things to have a shunt on, but we ended up on my leaning mono wall. He soon decided he didn't really like the look of it, so I had another bash. The route is getting cleaner and cleaner with every attempt, which makes matters a lot simpler, comparing it to the Hypocrisy of Moose is interesting, as that was filthy at first, but since my attempt and Steve and oaksie's top roping of it, it's cleaned up nicely.

The crux is semi-dialed, but I need to gain some serious power endurance to be able to get it every time after the heinous pulls before. It's quite interesting having an endurance project as I can't keep power in reserve at all. My fingers are now trashed, so I'm going to have to have some time off- there are some remarkably similar bolt holes in my kitchen beams, so I might try doing some pull ups on them.

Danby Projects

2011-06-24T20:33:00.005+01:00

Returning to Danby today to suss out the vast numbers of new routes. There is so much there that I adopted a new tactic- speed abseiling. I managed to cross off 6 pottential new routes as either rubbish, too hard, not quite worth the effort or stuff to come back to in a bit. (Get in touch if you want a project between E5 and H10...)

I then went for a look down last week's project. I just laughed to myself- today was the day when I realised I was never going to do it. I reckoned it would be F8a+/b; in actuality I'm not even sure it's possible. There are four moves on it which are definitely harder than Font 7c and two of them are at a height at which you would seriously injure yourself. The other two are ridiculously hard. So I think that's one to save for a bit.

So with no realistic project left I went for an ab down one of the four other lines I had my eye on. It looked about E6 6b/c on ab and I wondered whether it was worth waiting to try ground up, but thought I may as well have a look now, considering I am without either partners or transport.

It was actually quite hard. It looked like it had been an old aid route interestingly, with four closely spaced bolt holes going through the bulge. I was pretty happy these were there, as there weren't many other holds and these offered perfect ring finger monos which you could lock off inbetween. On the lip of the bulge the monos ran out, perhaps the FA had top stepped and reached further holds, or perhaps it was an incomplete project. It certainly looked quite hard for someone 'back int' day' to climb with big boots.

Anyway, after they ran out I was pretty stuffed. The next hold was a pocket over a metre away and without great feet the move is hard. I didn't manage it as I didn't want to full-on dyno on a route I knew would have to be a solo, but perhaps a full-dyno will be the only way to do it.

It looks like a cool project anyway- tip top climbing (albeit on artificial holds), culminating in a wild dyno at a serious height. I shall be back. The fingers soon gave in though and I returned home, but only after finding a great ground up project and after being chased by stampeding cattle.

Danby is ace!

Back in Love

2011-06-18T21:31:00.005+01:00

With climbing that is. I've been very busy with lots of bouldering, exploring and a bit of new routing in Cornwall, but that is all rather insignificant compared to the main event: North York Moors New Routing....

The Warm up...

The woods below Danby crag have seen many-a-man disappear down seemingly bottomless pits, only to be devoured by spiders and ticks. The boundary between rotting moss-covered trees and humus is blurred and only when the ground gives way, does one discover that what one was stood on was in fact once standing tall into the clear moors' air. This comical journey soon gives into a genuine worry for one's life, with predators in them woods that are most likely unknown to science and I hope they will remain unknown to me. Only the trail of murdered rabbits and the sudden twitch of a distant branch hinting at their presence.

After this approach I actually found some rock! Some of it was actually quite good. It was odd as I had walked the length of the crag before, but seemed to have missed a lot of the potential here. I shunted a couple of things, one which will go pretty soon as an unprotected route that is not that difficult. The second Arete I found was wild, truly wild- In fact I'd say it's the hardest thing I've ever been on. It is plum vertical and looks like another Hypocrisy of Moose, but is an even better arete and basically without footholds or gear. I managed one move on it in over an hour, with some parts of the pure ten metre line mindbogglingly difficult- I can't even see how you could do it.

It seems to start off with a very difficult highball problem which just seemed impossible and needs a good clean (I didn't even try this section as the rest was clean and needs figuring out anyway). Once you do this bit you have to set up for a large super-balancy arete dyno. I played with this move a lot and it is a really funky arete move; with shocking feet and contorted side-pulling. You are jumping for the first real hold which is an ok one pad crimp and it's super wild. Although I'm not climbing very well at the moment it seemed harder than any move I've ever done (English 7a?) and is one of the best moves I've ever attempted. Fingertips stroking the crimp, but the massive swing means it will be nails to hold. Fun though!

Once the crimp is gained you mount it with relative ease. This is the move I managed and about as hard as the crux of the Hypocrisy of Moose (Coincidentally I shunted this again later and was pleased to see how steady it seems now, although still certain I graded it correctly at H7 6c). Once you are stood on the crimp you get some real holds- a small low edge and a ironstone thing on the arete. You are kind of comfortable in this position, but the holds face kind of the wrong way and moving off it is nails due to the total lack of feet.

At this point you'd likely be in a death-fall situation and the next three moves to the top are outrageous- again with poor feet and only pinching aretes for hands.

So all in all pretty exciting. I have recently fallen out of love with new routing, but this route is really exciting. It's so mindbendingly difficult for me at the moment and even with perfect gear slots it would be harder than things like the Moose. The idea of climbing multiple 7a moves after a start that could be even harder and without any gear is just mental, but perhaps this is what I need to get psyched for getting better.

End Of The Blog For Now

2011-04-13T21:46:00.004+01:00

My recent fall at Tintwistle really made me question why I climb and I think I've answered that in my own mind pretty well- because I want to explore magical routes, whether these are by first ascents or repeats. Despite this I have got a lot of stick about being a self publicist, which I can understand- I blog, I post on UKC and I am generally pretty vocal about what I've been up to. But this is more publicising the amazing routes and places I've explored than trying to big myself up. Never the less I find comments that challenge my motives behind climbing hurtful, not because they make me worried about the real reason I climb, but because if anything did happen to me I know my lovable chums and relatives would start to question whether I was climbing for acclaim and them thinking I was maimed or killed for showing off is not something I want.

The best way I can prove I really am not bothered what people think about me is to 'retire' from the active reporting of my explorations. I hope that I have entertained and perhaps enthused some people to get out there. I will continue to explore and blog on a private blog which will not be visible to the public and I apologise for my selfishness to anyone who really enjoyed reading my blog. (If you really want to continue to follow me then you can become a 'friend' or something and can see what I'm up to.)

I will most likely return to the land of bullshit one day, but I am enjoying my climbing more than ever and as Mick Ryan would put it 'living the dream'.

Happy Penguin Greetings,

Franco x

Clemmitt's- Exploration

2011-04-12T15:40:00.008+01:00

Rockout Font 6a+

Today was the second day spent at clemmitt's this week. After a morning run down to Oak Crag we were blown back to the car a little grumpy due to the horribly cold wind. The new problem 'Mighty Oak' looked good, but it was too cold for the really sharp holds. It was time for somewhere sheltered and warm, It was time for Clemmitt's!

It was a great crag choice as the forest was tranquil and warm, whilst we could watch the heather being blown around on the top of the hill. We worked our way through the problems: me doing the problems I didn't try last time and Rebecca enjoying herself on the easy slabs.

We then went up to Jake's problem which is on a large block of really nice Moors sandstone. With the one mat we had, we simultaneously worked a direct on Jakes problem, which was a dyno to a sloper, and worked a traverse of the boulder from right to left working its way along the obvious juggy flake to a difficult slopey finish.

I had tried the direct before and it took about 10 goes before I latched it, giving a good Font 7a. Rebecca then did her problem which was her first ever new route and a good one at about V2. Just as we were about to leave the boulder, I noticed a large juggy hold by the start of her problem, on the right hand side and a decent hold on the lip of the top overhang. It was going to be a massive dyno, but I got to work on it. It was actually quite straightforward (about Font 6c), but probably the best problem I've done in the Moors- definitely going to be a future classic and on some great holds.

Agony Font 7a+?

Whilst Rebecca pottered about on the lower boulders I went about trying Lee's sloper problem, doing it with a sidepull at about V5, but i think the real challenge is to do it without the far left sidepull, which would be hard.

A walk round to Lee's latest boulder, which he has uncovered from the undergrowth had an obvious rising traverse line on it on small, poor holds. I spent a while working it and managed it eventually, topping out up a flake, which doesn't have to be the end- a possible extension would be about a grade harder. Today's effort, probably Font 7a+.

Sam's Problem Font 6b

The final challenge was a second go at a route which I'm thinking of calling 'agony'. It's a difficult move to a poor crimp (painful) and then a wild throw to the top. I got the top and held it, but had dabbed on the way up, so can't claim it. Not the best problem, but quite hard. Again Font 7a+,maybe Font 7b, but perhaps it just feels hard because it's so painful.

Some pictures of the good stuff are needed!

Scuggy Exploration- Something in Them Woods...

2011-04-10T23:09:00.008+01:00

Rebex enjoying the sun

Since the demise of my bike I've had to be rather cunning in my attempts to get to crags. Time to get some driving lessons I think....
Today I managed to persuade Rebecca to drive me to have a look at a project in return for a nice day out at Scugdale. It was a beautiful day, the rock was warm and it was a really lovely day doing brilliant routes, which I haven't done for a long time. Scugdale is such a great little venue and Rebecca enjoyed her self.
The Nose (V2)

Once she was a little tired I marched her back down to the car and then through some woods to search out one of the more esoteric buttresses in the moors. The objective was what I remembered as a short, bold, one move wonder in some woods.

Stewker - E1 5c (V2)

I was amazed to arrive at the crag to find Steve Ramsden and his mate already on it. I never thought I'd have to queue at Snotterdale! After he showed me the beta I realised that it wasn't going to be the quick afternoon ground-up/headpoint I thought it would be.

Hidden in the Woods: A Good line- I promise!

A cool route and my anti-style. I nearly linked it first go, but then didn't get the last move at all on my subsequent attempts. We only had half an hour before Sunday lunch anyway, so tootled back after re-checking out the right-hand quarries. I don't think I'm that interested to be honest. It's a great line in a nice esoteric venue, but very slappy, bold, slopey and body tensiony, which is everything I'm bad at. It's also pretty hard! Font 7a/F7b+ seemed to be the consensus, but doesn't mean much when you start to look down at the tree's you're going to land on. Good luck to Steve, will be a nice addition to the moors if he gets psyched for the solo.

An unclimbed hanging crack- looks E2 6aish

Clemmitt's Crag Bouldering

2011-04-09T19:50:00.006+01:00

Lee on 'Off the Rails'

Since my little tumble I haven't really been up to that much serious climbing, mainly bouldering about and learning to slack line, which was fun.

Today I returned to the moors with the girlfriend to meet up with Lee, Sam and Lee's mates at Clemmitt's crag. I had seen a few pictures of the crag which made it look really good, but I kind of assumed it was Lee's great photography skills making a poor set of boulder problems look good.

There are actually some real gems!

First off was some unclimbed problems on the left hand side. I managed to flash a problem that Lee was trying due to being able to reach past the crux and pop again, which was a bit of a cheat, but gave a great little V5. I then nearly managed a harder problem to the left, but fell whilst stroking the final jug. That should offer a great little Font 7a+.

Full Breakfast- Betaguides.

After getting excited on what I knew were the less-good boulders we headed over towards the wood, where Lee had been digging..... Wow! I was amazed. I had tipped Lee off about the possible potential of the place, but had no idea that it would be as good as it is. Great effort for Lee developing it all.

There were too many problems to go into much detail, but I repeated the excellent off the rails, flashed Full Breakfast, Smiling arete, Jake's Problem and many more.

It was basically a great day out bouldering around font 6c/7a, with a few new problems added to a great crag. The circuit there is really good at this grade and there is definitely stuff to do into the Font 7s. A few harder things too.

And what a day! I wandered all the way back to Castleton in the evening sun, true paradise after a perfect day with good friends. A real day of that immediate enjoyment you only get with climbing.

O'Gradey's on lead H9 6c/7a **

2011-03-24T08:10:00.005Z

So I got on my project today, O'gradey's Incurable Itch without side-runners.

I had the moves pretty wired, not perfect, but I was confident it'd all come together on the lead. The first couple of shunts went well and I was scared, but stoked and calmish.

On lead it all went smoothly, the E4 start bit was fine and clipping the pegs not an issue. I cruised higher up the 6b groove, now 8 metres above the pegs and into the crux.

A big move out onto the wall is followed by the worrying move- getting a foot super high and onto a little edge. It popped off. I held it. The ground was 20 metres below me and concentrated my movements.

I don't know what went wrong, the rope went over a little edge, which I had to move and burst my bubble. Negative thoughts then ensued on the crux. I knew my foot was wet from that last hold and this spiraled into doubt.

I was off.

Bounce off a ledge 7 metres below me, away from the crag and nearly hitting the other wall, as I swing Jack jumps off the ledge to take in slack. The top peg snaps, clean in half. The second peg rips. The E9 gear is now gone and i'm trusting the gear on the pre-amble E4, this is about 8 metres off the deck on a 23 metre route and a lone poor size 2 nut.

Jack managed to take in enough slack for me to come onto it and it holds! The rope starts to come tight just as I hit the floor.

I don't understand how Jack took that much slack in and when I look up at the pegs I can't believe I'm still here.

An ambulance is called and I'm taken off to Tameside General, but I'm fine. Theres Nothing broken, just a seriously bruised arse, knackered ankle, rope burn round my neck and a dented helmet. Definitely time to re-consider doing these kinds of routes.

So get on it! It's now an open project and my estimated H8/9 6c/7a has become a little harder since it is obvious there is no real gear. I'm done with it, open for you all.

Ego

2011-03-20T13:58:00.004Z

Inspired by my housemate asking me this morning if I was envious of current top climbers, I thought it would be an interesting subject to try and Tackle. I'm going to try and be honest throughout this, which I think a lot of people are not when they approach the subject of Egos in relation to climbing.

I think the first thing to accept is that climbing is full of people who are fiercely competitive. Whilst this may be largely inwardly-fueled, the natural yard stick of your own progression are those of your own species, who are equally psyched.

Despite this though, It's natural not to want to come across as a dick; and where different people are better at different styles of climbing it's very easy to upset.

This fear of appearing either soft or like a nob has led to false modesty, which is something I really detest. The "yeh, went out at the weekend and did a few routes. They were alright" (when they've onsighted 3 E8s) type attitude. I have met so few genuinely modest climbers over the years, but so many more that adopt this daft approach to conversation, purely so the inevitable question of "what were the routes?" has to be asked and they then look, not only like a beast, but like a jesusesque figure of modesty.

There is almost a set of rules these day for climbers, particularly those climbing at higher grades:

*always under-grade things

*But never refer to things as easy

*Only refer to routes by name

*never mention the grade of a route until asked

And look where's it's lead us. James Pearson. I am as keen as the next man to pop in the easy jokes about E12s, but he led a hard route and made a bold claim. The eventual down-grading of it doesn't affect anyone, not even potential future onsighters. He made a call and got it wrong. He's been so plagued by armchair critics that his new route, which looks relatively simple to grade, has been left without one, which really isn't a step in the right direction.

What's the alternative to bold claims of new grades? The Birkett approach? This is one of genuine modesty I feel. I've only seen him about a couple of times, so don't know the chap, but he seems genuinely disinterested in what others think of him. Good on him. I wish I was the same. But what about his routes? Sandbagging seems quite funny currently, when no one is going to be trying to onsight 'If six was Nine', but is he not doing future generations a dis-service by not pushing the boat out and daring to make bold claims of new grades? A solid E9 onsighter falling off 'Return of the King' in 2031?

I am not advocating a dog-eat-dog, "My routes are harder than yours. I am better than you", style of approach; just honesty. I have no trouble being honest- I'm a decent climber who struggles onsighting proper E5s, but manages to headpoint some things that are relatively hard/bold when the style suits me and I see a future for me doing some sub-cutting edge new slabs. But I won't be grading new H9 slabs H7, just to avoid being told by future repeaters that I'm a dick cause it's only E8. Can't we all try to just leave the egos and grade routes the grade we think they are, even erring on the side of softness to keep them future onsighters safe perhaps?

Tintwistle bouldering and Refining O'gradey's...

2011-03-19T17:59:00.004Z

With most of the Manchester crew spending the glorious sunny day at BUCs in Sheffield, I was left without a partner for the weekend. A bit of asking about and it turned out Matt Reid was excited at the possibility of checking out Tintwistle, so arrangements were made.

After a moderately heavy night of DnB rave and port we were pretty tired and didn't get to the crag until 12.

The first outing was up a blank wall on the right-hand side of the quarry. It was totally devoid of holds and was basically palming off dishes and stepping up with increasing insecurity. We only managed to get a few moves up and the next move was hard, so maybe one to work, or just wait until we are significantly better.

We realised we'd shredded through our tips a little bit, so then got straight onto working O'gradey Incurable Itch (E6 7a). Still to see a side runnerless ascent, it's been a long term project of mine, with about three or four shunting sessions on it now.

Finally today I felt like I was in a position to lead it, but not before I got reminded of the difficulty and brutality of the crux. I was confident before today that my recent finger strength gains would make the crux feel easy and a lot more secure, but I learnt that this route had very little to do with finger strength and was going to feel incredibly on/off however good you were. Such thoughts made me think of the eventual grade.

The last runner is a peg, which flexes. Even with this holding, you're looking at a 15 metre, ground-scraping (and definite injury on ledges) fall. Luckily though I don't think the climbing is as hard as the last guide proposed. Probably E6 with the side runners, but for someone of my height it's a wild 6c, rather than a dimension-bending 7a, especially with my new beta.

Despite the possibility of it 'only being 6c' though, it's looking like H8 could be a bit of a sandbag....

The day was finished off on the lower boulders, which are really top notch. Matt managed a Font 7b pretty quickly, whilst I worked on doing a Font 6c no-handed. I managed to get the top, but used a hand on the top out- still quite chuffed with that.

New Problems at the Pumphouse

2011-03-07T17:34:00.004Z

I had a beautiful day out with Jack Rotheram at the Pump House today. My ripped finger has morphed into a revolting callus, but it wasn't too painful today, so could occasionally use it.

Project one, which is a large rock over off a very poor edge, was sent after three goes today, which was really satisfying, latching the juggy rail with all points off.

Project two was a bit more 'pie in the sky'- one which I had tried last Thursday and just managed to do every move. After a bit of effort with the footwork towards the end of the traverse, I managed to get a move from the end. I had another rest and then failed again. Only after a third go did I manage to swap a gaston into a layback and finished off one of the more difficult problems there. Font 7c?

O, and the slate was fun. The new shoes were a bit crippling, but I managed to get up 'heading the shot' after 1 fall screwing the crux up. Was nice.

Project at the Pumphouse

2011-03-03T20:23:00.004Z

The Pump House in 1979/1980 © Jiduvah

A sunny couple of hours after lectures weren't wasted today as me, Jack and Tereza got out to the Pump House. We did a few cool lines, some of them a little dynamic and high ball, which was fun.

Tereza got bored and me and Jack hung around until we found a cool project traversing the whole of the main wall. Took us a good while to do all the moves and linking many of them together was too much for today. It definitely seems like something that I could eventually do though, with loads of difficult moves from Gastons to Laybacks.

I will be back soon for some working.

First Route of the Year- Wings of Unreason

2011-03-02T21:17:00.002Z

Had a nice potter up Wings today. Was nice, bit dangerous and not very taxing, but a nice feature and a deserved classic.

Was nice to massage the Ego with a waltz about, but my shoes are now totally broken and I need some new ones before the Rainbow slab calls at the weekend. I'm psyched for the coming spring season of trad climbing, should be fun.

Turning into a Tool

2011-01-20T22:48:00.002Z

So, 2011 has been quite a good year so far. My lack of posting has been due to a lack of outdoor movement over the past few weeks, but I've been taking advantage of our in-house woodie to gain some valuable strength.

For the first time ever I've managed to do campus moves and general semi-burly moves which 'weak franks 2k10' could only have dreamed of. The results were partially seen today, with my first outdoor venture of 2011. Down to Burbage and Stanage for a potter about.

I was only bouldering, but managed to flash a lot of problems, a few V6s and a V7; then managing a V8 third go. Most chuffed and was quite near on a few F7b+s, so will have to keep pushing the bouldering.

I'm very happy to be pushing the bouldering as it helps me fit in, in this faceless town of boulderers- Manchester. It's also enormous FUN.

2010, or more importantly 2011

2011-01-07T13:54:00.002Z

I'm not sure what to write when looking back at 2010. I achieved non of my aims, but I feel like i've changed as a person, which is something I never really wanted to do. What I'd give to go back to the boldness of youth and thinking I was something special.

The year started quite well, with the FA of The Hypocrisy Of Moose, A route which I have no doubt will become a little micro classic, this twinned with the greatest discovery of the year, winter climbing. I am yet to fail on a winter route, although I did sketch the last bit of the Jabberwock, so I am still hopeful there, but not as hopeful as I once was- declaring all winter climbing easy as it's on jugs. I now realise that VIII and IX may well be quite hard, but compared to their equivalents in trad climbing still comparatively easy.

Headpointing has been like a disease this year. The year started with it being my friend, but now I look back and see how I abandoned onsight climbing for the quick fix and high grades of working routes. Ultimately I have failed to get a hard route done, which I honestly did not think would be the case looking back at this point.

The Alps was another failure although a nice holiday. So failure is common theme, but I'm genuinely happy to have failed. I now know my weaknesses and some of my strengths, which brings me onto how I am going to improve in order to achieve what I want to. My main aim is to get strong. I can't even lock off on a jug at the moment and can do about four pull-ups, so I suppose H7 is in that respect quite an achievement. If I can turn V6 strength into V9 strength then maybe I can loose the shackles of inability? We'll see, but some fun objectives for me to look back on I'll list below for my own amusement:

*V9

*F8a+

*onsight lots of things and loose the 'losing the onsight ego thing'

*FOU

2010-12-21T18:04:00.003Z

Just been on fryup head, doing a spot of tooling. Lots of the falls are in and the left hand side of the big one is in. The less steep side is still a torrent. Stoked for some moors action if it stays cold.

--- Sent with Mobile Mail by Orange

Fight Or Flight (VII 7) and The Jaberwock (VII 7)

2010-12-03T16:48:00.008Z

The First Pitch of tech 6

Some mid-week Lakes action entailed me, Jack and big Steve heading for the lakes. A last minute call to Pete Graham meant we had a knarley lakes local to show us about and some comfortable lodgings in Coniston.

Frozen Face

Day one was windy and cold and started with a quick walk up to Bowfell. Steve, being violently ill all night, had to sack the days exploration off; meaning Me, Jack and Pete were climbing as a three. Pete fancied giving the recent edition to North Buttress (Fight or Flight VII) a go, which is exactly what we did.

A wintery North Buttress

The crux pitch after Pete's cleaning

The route is comprised of three pitches; an easier and bold start pitch, an easy traverse pitch and then a difficult, but well protected top pitch. After 50 metres of grade II soloing we got to the first belay and I got sorted for the first bold pitch, after loosing a game of rock, paper, scissors with Pete to get the better-protected pitch.

Steve on Engineer's Slabs VI 7

The first pitch went fine after I got an OK cluster of gear low down and just ran it out and onto some good tech 5 turf. Jack lead through to the last belay on the route and then Pete styled up the beautiful crux pitch, taking his time to clear the hoar off the wall. I was pretty jealous he got the hard and safe pitch, which offered some really cool climbing with perfect gear in between moves, but then again I got to second it in total safety!

The Jabberwock

Once we warmed ourselves up after our chilly day out, we set out to try and repeat Dave Birkett's route 'The Jabberwock' up on Gable. The pitch grades were given 5,7,6, but Pete did an alternate start by accident which was pretty desperate. The normal route looked way harder than tech 5 anyway. I was lucky enough to get the main pitch, which was a 20 metre crack of superb quality on good hooks and then a further 10 metres of insecure torquing up another crack. I found it pretty tricky and it was definitely a fair bit harder than the other two sevens I've been on, but not really experienced enough to comment on the grade at the moment.

Crux of the first Crack is getting stood on the foothold

Pete's last pitch was another surprise and it soon got dark, making both his lead and my second a bit of an epic (especially when my headtorch failed). I thought the first and last pitches were a similar difficulty to the hardest stuff I'd done before, with the crux crack being a notch harder, but I suppose that's just typical Birkett!

The journey home was eventful after the car nearly rolled despite slow speeds. Jack skilfully avoiding a bus in the middle of the road and getting through a 4 foot gap. Pretty sketchy, driving up a wall and on two wheels for a while! we're all healthy though, so not to worry.

The Wall we mounted

More Wall

The Haddock Plan

2010-11-29T14:42:00.006Z

Dosing in a room of ice, a vision comes from the walls. A swiming fish. A haddock.The Haddock Speaks. In riddles, but poorly crafted enough for the meagre mind of myself to understand.
My new aquatic friend asked me this: "what is your greatest weakness?"

To which I replied that I was weak. Not being able to climb steep ground. His advice rung pure, "To climb the Fou, your greatest aim, you must conquer your arms. Be fit. Lock off. One-armers are unnecessary, but lock off and campus and you shall next summer the pure granite walls onsight."

So the Haddock has given me the key. Depression was quashed and now I am ready for a year of devotion for the Fou.

Cheers Haddock

Headpointing is over for now

2010-11-28T22:23:00.003Z

Headpointing is over for now. Even after days of dry weather, new routes still seep. My body is weak and cold destroys any psyche.

From now on it's all going to be about the onsight climbing. Whether winter or trad, it's what is my real passion and headpointing has just become an obsession with no real passion anymore, just ego feeding further attempts and fear halting any real attempt on lead.

Happy that I'm now free.

Processing The Impossible

2010-11-22T12:08:00.006Z

I had an ab down the direct finish to Peace Process at Tintwistle Knarr Yesterday. It's been regarded as impossible by a couple of people and I reckon they might be right.

After climbing to the highpoint on the E5 (3 metres above a cluster of ok gear), you break out onto the wall. The first hard move is rocking over on the jug of the E5 and you then have no holds bigger than a matchstick for a further 4 metres. 4 metres doesn't sound a long way, but it'll be about 10 utterly desperate moves; Most of which involve laybacking off razorblade edges with nothing for your feet and popping (or wildly jumping) for the next razorblade.

Luckily there are quite a few holds on the wall, even if they are all pretty small. After the 4 metres of ultra-thinness, your first noticable hold appears in the form of a sloping crimp, which you surmount up to another small hold. Then a lunge onto a big shelf and continuing till the top at about 6b.

The end of the difficult climbing is about 8 metres above your gear and the gear is about 10 metres off the deck. The idea of linking it on a top rope is pretty out there at the moment and massively beyond me, but the wall is truly beautiful and I really hope somone with suitable ability and stiff shoes gets on it.

New Project In The Western Peak

2010-11-13T19:55:00.006Z

After a tip off of an unclimbed direct finish to an E3, I headed off out with Dan Lane for a look. It was soaking wet and looked like a minor route, so set out to have a look for other new routes.

I soon found that an impossible-looking slab offered a line of small edges with a distinctive 5 foot gap in between the holds. It took a while to figure out, but with high feet, finger strength and what is now almost becoming a trademark hyper-extended finger push I managed the crux.
Pretty Nails, and a great line. I was well stoked. The available gear made the line appear even more classic, with a good cluster at around half height (on a 20 metre wall!) and the crux at the top. 50 foot whippers await...
Unfortunately on my return home I discovered that the line had already been climbed at a reported and unrepeated E5 6c. The description relies heavily on very out of the way side runners, which must of been pre-placed to have almost offered a top rope for the crux.

A quick search appears to cast doubt as to whether the route has been climbed at all with
"Looked at the direct finish to ***** that ******* "climbed";) May be "delightfull" on a top rope;)", but after a chat with the FA it's pretty obvious he climbed it.
And others have obviously seen the appeal of climbing the line without the side runners:
"E5 6c, just a thought, but the real route is still there to be had anyway. Loose the side runners and get the proper line. Now that would be a route worth writing home about!!! That would be historically significant "done without side runners", Joe Bloggs xx/xx/200x E8/9 6c.;)"
Regardless as to whether it's been done with gear on route or not, the challenge of freeing that desperate slab's lethal potential is really enticing. To be on that wall, with gear 15 foot below and nothing but fear driving you forward is what I'm psyched for.

Ravenswick Video

2010-11-07T14:52:00.005Z

Turns out Dave is a far better video editor than I, but never mind, I got some extreme camera work in...

In HD. (only joking, we're not rich)

The Ravenswick Experience from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

Roseberry and Ravenswick

2010-11-05T17:52:00.005Z

Roseberry - Get Psyched... from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

10am: Up to Roseberry. Wet. Ab for a look at the pegs. Pull the pegs out with fingers. Retreat to Ravenswick.

I think I'm going to leave the direct for the next generation. It's one of those routes which just gives you a bad vibe. I've even set off on the lead before now and got up to the crux, but it's just unjustifiably suicidal. It's about F6c, very bold, sandy, thin, and just generally slippy and snappy. If I had to punt at a grade I reckon it would be around E7 6a, just a total death route despite it's relative ease. Hats off to whoever climbs it, they bonkers.

2pm: Arrive at a Ravenswick after cheese at mine. Most of the crag has given in to the torrential rain over the past week, but the black wall is still dry amazingly!

We bouldered around and added yet more problems to the wall. After a couple of V6ish things (The Hidden Treasure and Stranded) we finally found a new problem that really tested us. In fact it tested us so much we didn't manage it! I was pretty close to the standing start, but tips were well and truly destroyed by the end. We're off back tomorrow to try and send what will be perhaps the hardest problem there...

Weak As Kitten, Inspired Like Fox

2010-10-25T17:42:00.003+01:00

I'm definitely weak and very thin at the moment. This is interesting when attempting these routes which I was working when I was stronger.

Up at Kepwick today to try and perfect the groove. The crag was moist and cold after a lot of rain and the sandstone kind of soft as a result. I think someone has been on the Groove as well, as a crucial pocket has had a lot of wear, making it a bit poor.

Trying a physical route like the Kepwick Groove was quite interesting with reduced fitness, as I had to really perfect the sequence to get up it. I managed the crux move fine- it felt hard (cause it is), but I didn't fall off it once. I have the technique for the crux wired- the key being to clamp the top of the toes of the trailing right foot against the wall as you bump up.

The start moves were a different story though, affected slightly by damp I managed the more techniquey move still OK, but the powerful pull on the now damaged pocket just felt way too out there to solo.

After this you have to hang off a rubbish gaston above your head whilst you smear your feet to place the bomber Skyhook (your only gear). This causes a problem as you get massively scared sketching around on rubbish smears before entering the very precise and technical crux, which you need to be relaxed and happy for.

Maybe this was the session where it seems way too hard, before it all falls into place as with the Moose, or maybe it was the session where you realise it's a nails-hard death route that only a total madman would attempt?

Link of the Kepwick Groove from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

Roseberry Direct- A Shower From Success

2010-10-24T12:59:00.002+01:00

After a full day of rain me and Luke got out in the two hours of dry weather available. It was horrendously cold, windy and rainy every now and again.

Luke rapped the direct, which he had previously reckoned to be E3 6a! He managed to get one of his new Karakorum 'Knife Blades' in the upper part of the route, which seemed quite good actually.

He was getting psyched for the lead, which I really wasn't up for, with the soft sandstone being like a sponge and very weak and the general extreme cold and wind. It was about this time that it down poured and we ran for the cover of the boulders.

So the direct survives another day. I was kind of hoping he'd do it so I wouldn't have to....

Back On Some Rock After 6 Weeks

2010-10-23T13:48:00.005+01:00

If I were Dave Macleod, I would have been running about, dieting, doing one armers, running some more and writing a book. Unfortunately this isn't the case. When the Doctor said my Hand would be knackered for a few Months, that imediately meant 6 weeks of sitting around an eating.

The Result of this is that I am now massively heavy and have zero strength. Nevermind, I had a good time lazing around and I didn't really have any strength anyway.

I had my first little foray back into climbing yesterday, with a quick moped over to Ravenswick Quarry. I was upset in my cold weak state that I was not feeling much love for the very small crimps down there, but after a bit of soloing up some of the VSs in trainers (scary after sitting around!) I got some blood in my fingers and proceeded to boulder about.

I retro-flashed the V6 traverse, which was most comforting, before doing the 'bummel circuit' (V8) start into it at a similar grade, maybe V6. I then got Lopic's V6 pinch problem second go and then worked on some eliminates on that wall. I eventually managed to put up two new V5/V6s and then worked on a V7, which was really cool, popping off a slopey crimp to a jug.

Despite the rain the floor was dry enough to mooch about in my rock shoes which was good as I didn't have a pad, I returned home a couple of hours later- a new V7 and a couple of V5s in my pocket, a most pleasant home-coming. The grades at Ravenswick are pretty soft I feel and the new problems i've put up are compared to the existing problems (as I haven't really bouldered anywhere else).

The rain has really set in today, but hopefully me and Luke are going to dash out and attempt Roseberry direct (E6 6bish) if the rain ever stops.

Five Days In The Moors

2010-10-21T14:07:00.002+01:00

I'm going to be back home for five days. That's five days of mooching about the most magical place in England, working routes and having some drinks with chums. I'm not too sure whether anyone will actually be in a position to climb and be around, but I can get some things inspected and maybe get other projects sorted.

I'm well excited. Stoked for the final few routes which stand between the Moors and completion. Top of My List:

The Groove

Roseberry Direct

Stoupe Brow Groove

They're pretty spread out geographically, but some cold mopeding about should go.

Psyched!

Mooching Back Into It

2010-10-16T13:58:00.005+01:00

It's been five weeks now since I broke my hand and the god of broken hands (metacarpular) has been most nice to me. There has been little pain, except for when mike hit it with a hammer and I seem to be able to hang off it quite well. The swelling is a bit of an issue still, with a very fat right hand, but I’ve always wanted a (second) fat body part, so I’m not too unhappy.

I have to go back to the motherland that is the moors for a few days next week, to see a consultant, so I imagine I’ll be tootling about and getting on some pleasant routes, weather permitting. I'm properly psyched for 'Kepwick perfecting', and hopefully the weather wont stop me getting out.

There's no doubt in my mind any more that I will get on this route. The only question is when. Time, weather and ability are unlikely to coincide, but surely there is no hurdle to such obsessive devotion to one route?Luke at St. Bees

Grooving to Success

2010-10-02T15:34:00.004+01:00

An undercut wildly to a small positive crimpy pocket,

From here a recoup after a very on/off move,

and then divine inspiration,

Still with no gear,

an off balance move with a hard pull to an intermediate edge,

A further unnatural slap,

gain the next pocket with the back of your left middle finger,

This security of a deep pocket is broken as you smear wildly,

right hand on a gaston,

Place the skyhook in that pocket,

sealing your security and fate,

now only your left little finger will fit in,

the sharp edge of the skyhook scrapes at it,

a high foot on a good edge,

out right for a middle finger mono,

Now in a crucifix position,

held by a high right foot,

trailing left,

left little finger,

powerful right hand mono,

Slap to a flat edge by your face,

and then the natural climbing begins,

with one movement,

the hand latches as the right leg extends,

further above your Skyhook,

the right hand is raised to a sloping gaston,

the left hand is brought close by,

pushing at the edge of the scoop,

The left foot is raised,

then raised again,

a massive move,

the crux,

the left foot is so high that momentum must be started by sideways movement,

the left had counter balances,

the right foot scratches at nothing,

all force is driven from the power of you right middle finger,

now hyper extended and the elastic properties of tendons are keeping you alive,

a final build up,

the most important pop of your life,

the jug is reached and only a show-boating pop to the top remains.

10 metres. A lot of thought.

Too cowardly to get on it. Even with an unbroken hand. Macleod reckons to climb 'If six was Nine' (F8a+) you should be climbing F8c+/9a to retreat out of the death zone and be safe. So extrapolate that to the Kepwick groove. A similarly dangerous route, but at about F7c, instead of F8a+, so you should be climbing about F8b/+to be safe on it. This is probably why it hasn't been done. There aren't many people about in the moors who climb F8b, so the only alternative is to be a bit mental. The moors does have a lot of mental climbers (all of the ones that i've met in fact), but not many of them have the interest in extending this to F7c new routes.

Bon bit of pondering then.

A few weeks off

2010-09-15T17:39:00.004+01:00

A bit knackered, but i'm on the mend. Should be a couple of weeks and then I can get back on some new routes.

The current plan is to put up a new H9 at kepwick and then give up climbing. I've been thinking about it for a while. The general scene in climbing is full of tools, too many tool. So a new route and then a life of making loads of money and raving it up will do.

Broken hand, foot and cocsix

2010-09-11T18:19:00.001+01:00

Gutted

Franco's Downfall from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

Bit of a Lull- Autumn And That

2010-09-10T11:36:00.004+01:00

Since our day out at Round Crag I haven't been up to that much. I had some resit exams for a bit and then me and Dave headed to the Lakes. We got shut down by a wet Dow Crag and headed for the Slate quarries.

We managed to do all the remaining E4s and retro-bolted E4s on the back wall which was ace, and I then led a corner which I had tried before, which has now been bolted, which goes at F7a+. I remember fiddling to try and get some RPs a while back and ultimately retreating very low down, but with bolts it was pretty pleasant and steady.

After a bit of an epic involving car tyres and hitching we got back to the moors. A couple of days bouldering is about all that has occurred, but I'm interested to get back on the unclimbed routes, maybe try and get on the wall right of Gehenna (E7 6bish) over the next few days.

A Round Day Out - Video

2010-08-27T11:00:00.002+01:00

An Edit of our day at Round Crag last week. My first editing project:

A Round Day Out from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

Round Crag New Routes- H7 and E6 Onsight.

2010-08-21T18:06:00.013+01:00

After a week of disillusioned work and drinking, me and Dave decided to pop back up to Round crag for 4 hours.

Untitled from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

Me shunting it previously

Dave was psyched for Fresh Arete without side-runners, which was good as I couldn't really justify it, with the number of fluffable moves and the fall of certain injury. It was probably the most intense belay I've ever had, with the jump into the blocks below being the only way I could have stopped Dave hitting the deck, with the ludicrously low gear (2 metres).

Dave Warburton Headpoints New Moors E7 6b At Round Crag from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

To be honest I think it was mainly psychological as the run-out was immense and the fall terrifying. Dave dispatched the route with ease and seemed very happy. Good effort from a guy on top-form. He's yet to name the route, but consensus from the people working the route previously indicated a grade of around E7 6b, which is about right.

Next up was an untried route. It takes the wall to the right of Honey Arete (E5 6b *** (more like **) ). Dave rapped the route and cleaned, chalked and tried some moves. He gave me some beta and then I went for the onsight flash. It took me a while and I eventually figured out the crux and boshed up via slappy side-pulls and horror-show tree-route pulling above the swamp.
First bit...

I called my new route Vampiric Obsession and it goes at about E6 6b, or a DWS grade of F7a. I had a small boulder mat on the bog below to keep my feet dry. Pretty glad i didn't take the leg-breaking fall onto it like.

Post-Vampiric Obsession Fear from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

The day was finished by some forced-pot holing, attempting to find some lost nuts down some turfy boulders!

An amazing afternoon out in a beautiful place, with a psyched dooge and climbing some good routes. Happy as.

Vampiric Obsession is the Red line.

Boldness

2010-08-11T20:42:00.003+01:00

I've always been quite a bold climber, with most of my greater achievements being dangerous and easy, rather than hard and safe. This works well with a lot of Moors new routing, as most hard routes are massively bold.

I'm getting really torn at the moment between being conservative and safe or just going for it on routes which I know I should be fine on. Routes like 'Fresh arete' without side runners which I have shunted a fair few times and never fallen off the crux. It should go, and it will go, but today I just looked down from the crux at the boulders below and thought about what I was gaining.

In the grand scheme of things it's a good new route at an esoteric crag, that will probably make me quite happy to look back at as an adventure of my youth, but it's hardly a 1000 metre new route in the karakorum. It was spitting a bit today, so I suppose i'll have to see how I feel on a day with perfect conditions. Interesting to ponder though.

Round Crag- 'Fresh Arete'

2010-08-07T14:30:00.007+01:00

I went up to Round Crag today as no one was around to do anything. I was pretty stoked for the arete to the left of Scut de Scun ai (E6+ 6b), which Steve Ramsden has recently headpointed with side runners in Time Out.

It didn't take long to realise why Steve had used the side runners- amazingly slappy climbing. He's managed to create a great little safe testpiece with big moves from bottom to top and gear just out left, with moves which are very hard to onsight.

Round Headpointing from Ram Man on Vimeo.

(Copyright Steve Ramsden)

I managed the route via a hard and insecure sequence and then managed to figure out a way to do the crux in a far more reasonable fashion, which felt like E5 6b climbing, rather than F7c.

Whilst Steve's route will be one of the moor's E5s of the future to try, it definitely needs an ascent 'sans' side runners, which is going to be a horrific E7 at about F7b. I'm not massively psyched for an insecure solo like...

Clemmitt's Crag FA

2010-08-06T15:04:00.002+01:00

Managed to meet up with Twig before he went off to Yosemite tomorrow and we joined forces with Dooge to spend an hour and a half at Clemitt's crag. The crag is poor, but there was a new route to be tried that I sussed out a few months ago. Flip-flops were sported, which was an awful choice as the walk in is pretty steep and head high bracken.

The route was an interesting ground up effort with a hard start protected by shallow snappy nuts and wires followed by hard climbing untill a rocking chockstone and an easier finish. Not going to be a classic, but a good test. Locked out when we got home.

Back in The UK

2010-08-04T14:21:00.005+01:00

Me and Dave Modelling my beautiful cairn below the Peigne

Currently on the bus between paris and London. I'm pretty happy to be back in the UK- with piles of mashed potato and beautiful (if not rather small by alpine standards) routes ahead. I've definitely got stronger/lighter and am going pretty well, so we'll have to see how the UK trad goes. Another Alpine half-season survived and now stoked for mint sauce. Bon.

Alps Failure

2010-08-02T14:49:00.009+01:00

There were a lot of objectives kicking around in early July and non of them have been achieved. We failed to do any of the classic Chamonix routes and failed to even get on the South Face of the Fou.

Plus Lourd Que L'Air (ED4/ F7a+)

I wasn't that bothered about not getting on stuff like the Walker, as the conditions were awful and our one 'pushing the boat out' experience on the American Direct was utterly ridiculous. Me and Chris had been pretty stoked for the Fou, but even that had to be abandoned when the aiguilles got plastered in powder and hoar.

In Absentia (F7b)

A depressing trip all-round, but at least i've been making decisions in an alpine setting and climbed some hardish routes in the aiguilles. Dimanche Noir (VIII) was particularly harrowing, described as 'bold and unavoidable moves'. It was definitely some of the hardest climbing i've done and in its seeping state the crux move up top had to be avoided by an even more desperate move. So i'm partially happy to have climbed some long trad routes, but not even getting on the Fou is really annoying. O well, next year will be bon.

Dooge Following the Crux Pitch of Verdon Memories

American Direct

2010-07-26T17:13:00.005+01:00

Well cold. A 4O'clock start meant the face was really cold. We simuled the first ten or so pitches, which normally would have been fine, but the face was verglassed, so pretty sketchy.

A couple of Canadian guides backed off near the terrace and we should have probably too, but stoked for the tick, we got a fair way up. We managed all the crux pitches but then chris ended up taking a 25 metre fall off a layback crack a bit off route.

I was cold and talked Chris into a retreat. A few sketchy abs led to the terrace and the beautiful bolt belays. Most horrendous, but a bon alpine-feeling route in utterly ridiculous nick.

Chamonix Aiguilles So Far

2010-07-13T14:10:00.006+01:00

Mingulay
The weather out in Chamonix at the moment is really hot. Too hot for anything in the valley and walk ups to the plan have to be attempted either very early or very late. A lot of people seem to have just sacked off their objectives, which are mainly snow-conditions based, but we've managed to get up to the aiguilles a fair bit.

The first day was the usual harsh introduction to alpine ascent, with a 1,500 metre walk up to the L'M. We managed to do the classic Menegaux with a direct finish which involved an aid pitch through a roof- most bon.

Our second trip up to the Aiguilles was a little more pleasant, with a 5 O'Clock start and nearly 2,000 metres of ascent, climbing the modern classic 'Majorette Thatcher'. It was a bit of a challenge I had my eye on as a few mates had had a go on it a couple of years ago and failed to climb the entire crux pitch free and onsight. The Roof is quite tricky! A really nice route at about E3 I reckon.

A bivy back down on the plan aloud us to stock up on Cous Cous before the next day's thrutching on 'Les Diamants du President' and a quick go on a route graded ABO- to the left of the Majorette. We didn't know what the route was, as we had no guidebook, but the line is pretty obvious- following a crack rising out of a strange juggy dish feature. There were a few bolts here and there and I followed some up a blank wall directly below the dish, but apparently the route followed a flake on the right. I eventually fell off near the top anyway, but was a bit disappointed to see that the direct version wasn't recorded anywhere. It was quite thin, moving up granite crystals.

So a first week in the alps has provided a bit of cragging in the Aguilles, dodging thunder storms and getting used to Granite climbing. A bit of research has also revealed that the west face of the blaitiere has lost a lot of routes and the Fou is unapproachable apart from via the Midi. I'm not really very stoked to use the Cable Cars, so we'll have to see if there is a way to approach it from elsewhere. Bon Bon.

Kepwick Groove Musings and The Alps 2010

2010-07-03T01:00:00.002+01:00

The Hypocrisy of Moose seemed like a major route and a serious undertaking at the time, and it was. With one hard move above marginal gear, but with a limitted physical and dangerous aspect. In hindsight, I reckon the gear (placed well) would probably hold on the moose, but due to the difficulty of the move, I reckon it will probably stay as a classic moors H7.

Comparing this to the Kepwick groove scares me. When I topped out on 'The Moose' I felt like I could have soloed it, which is good, as the crux of the groove is about as hard as the moose and above a lone Skyhook. Unlike 'The Moose' though, the groove has a lot of difficult climbing before the crux, which is sort of worrying. There was no worry about pumping out on the Moose, but a lack of juice for the final move on the Groove would leave you trusting the skyhook above an extremely serious fall. I'm starting to understand the difficulty of headpointing now- I can do the moves, but it's a big commitment to set out on a route where you can't hang about for rescue.

It will all have to wait now anyway. Tomorrow is the start of mine and Dooge's grand voyage to the Alps and we're pretty stoked. Dingey Kepwick will be swapped for sweeping granite features, good food, mountains and hopefully some sun. Chamonix is guaranteed to be amazing once again and i'm stoked for some ace routes. I'm not even that concerned with pushing the boat out, just getting on some amazing routes with cool people and cheap baguettes. Peace.

Video of the Groove at Kepwick linked

2010-06-30T22:00:00.003+01:00

The video makes it look pretty eliminate. I might have to have a go at doing the right hand finish, as it ventures further away from the left arete and hence a better line (even though the left arete is useless).

Link of the Kepwick Groove from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

I managed to place the skyhook whilst climbing and do the following moves, but it does make it feel seriously pumpy and makes the other moves harder. A better inspection of the pocket also revealed it's a bit rubbish and looks like it might snap. F7c soloing doesn't really appeal, but nor does F7c+ climbing protected by a skyhook which is massively scary to place- smearing wildly with a lone gaston. O well...

Moors Routes of H/E6 and above

2010-06-29T15:23:00.017+01:00

Just some Anorak Route lists for moors-enthusiast. I find listing routes is good for Psyche. Looking at how far the moors has come since this time last year is pretty cool- with 5 routes of E7 now instead of 2. I sense this is just the beginning of Moors Developement, with a lot of new routes still out there and a fair few active people.
(U) = Unclimbed

Harder

(U)Kepwick Groove Right Hand- H9? 6c (F7c+)

(U) Kepwick Groove- H8+ 6c ** (F7c)

The Hypocrisy of Moose- H7+ 6c *** (F7b+)

Esmerelda H7+ 6c (F7c??) **

(U) Stoupe Brow Wall - E7+ 6b **

A Different Kind of Blue E7 6c *** (F7c) (Now 'ground uped with Beta'!)

(U)The Stoup Brow Groove- E7 6b (F7b+)***

Magic in the Air H7 6b(F7a+?)***

Fresh Arete- H7- 6b (F7a+) **

Collateral H6/7 6c

Minor

(U)Action Indirecte H7/8 6c (F7b+?)
(U) Kay Nest Arete- E7 7b (F8?)
(U) Gehenna Wall- E7- 6b/c (F7b)

(U) Kay Nest Wall E7? 6c??? (F7??)

Scut di Scun ai (H6 ++ 6b)

Three Screaming Popes E6+ 6c (F7b+)
(U) Roseberry Direct- E6+ 6b (F7a)

Origional Sin H6 6c (F?)
Chi Ching H6 6c (F?)

Desperate Den E6 6c (F7b+)

(U)Porcupine Arete E6 6b (F?)

Vampiric Obsession E6- 6b (DWS F7a)

Pabbay And Mingulay

2010-06-28T18:09:00.002+01:00

I've been wanting to get out to the Hebrides for a while now, with so many pictures of epic-looking cliffs being smashed by the sea.

The routes are ridiculously good. There's not that much to say about the Islands, except that they're perfect in almost every way. You eventually get bored of climbing 3/4 star routes, with jugs everywhere and epic lines, splitting massive cliffs. I didn't even have to venture onto tricky routes to maintain interest in the islands, although we did put up perhaps one of the best routes around- Eagle Gravy (E1 4c). Or maybe not..

The crew was good, the weather was pretty cool- all in all an ace trip. Only a week to go until the alps now- maybe a quick headpoint of the Kepwick Groove before we go? It's shaping up to be an ace year.

Follow The British Tahu Ratum Expedition

2010-06-12T14:06:00.002+01:00

Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley and Hamish Dunn are attempting a new route up the Tahu Ratum NW ridge this summer. They're reasonably experienced alpinists, but have no experience of the greater ranges and have chosen a big objective for their first trip. The mountain looks ace and will no-doubt prove tricky. You can follow their progress via reports from Pakistan on their new blog. Good luck chaps!

The Unclimbed Groove linked

2010-06-12T12:27:00.006+01:00

Back to Kepwick yesterday with Pete; finally met the Ravenscar beast that is Steve Ramsden. We rigged a top rope and I set about attempting to show the guys the Beta for the latest moors Challenge.

Both Pete and Steve abandoned my, what they described as, 'Dawes-esque' Beta and found a different way, which seemed a bit easier but more tiring.

Upper Sequence from middle from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

A previous attempt

Eventually I linked the whole route via my dynamic way and sketched my way through the top crux. Pete and Steve both also came very close to linking it via their alternate start, but were a bit shut down by the last move which seemed to suit my style. They managed to do the top slightly differently though, with another move up (which I hadn't been able to do), before moving back left.

So quite a lesson in the variation in body types and strengths today. I'm feeling pretty strong at the moment and once I figure out a way to place the Skyhook on lead it's probably going to be 'lead time'. The Tricam is worse and even harder to place than I thought, so not really worth bothering stopping on a hard move to place. Bomber Skyhook though....

Steve seemed to agree that it's going to be getting a 'pretty weighty' H grade, plainly due to it having a crux about as hard as 'The Moose', but with F7cish climbing before and a lone skyhook. It's going to be sweet.

A final 8 mile walk back from Guisborough made the following visit to the pub quite interesting- down and out after 3 pints.

A Proper Moors LGP

2010-06-10T21:05:00.006+01:00

Since Steve found a solution to the Ravenscar arete there has only really been one last great problem left. It has been top roped by a couple of past moorland greats, but both thought it too sketchy to lead.

The Proj. from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

The Start Move (big)

It's a leaning wall and the belay up top is rubbish, so i've been waiting a while to get some stakes in. Today we managed to get up there and hammered some belay stakes into some beautiful solid turf.

A crappy wall. Looks about E3.
Upper Crux from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

I couldn't get over how cool the route is, with a hard introductory pop at about V5 off a big undercut and then a harder move followed by sustained bouldery moves to gain a blind groove. From here a series of monos and balancy moves lead up to the crux. The route is really sustained (about F7c) until the crux move which is a hypocrisy of moose-esque gaston rock-over. A much bigger move than the Moose, but on better holds and not so contorted. We didn't manage to link the route as after attempting vast amounts of sequences up the plethora of pockets and slopers we had got quite tired.

The videos (to come) show some of the moves though. Chuffed with Doogies psyche today, ultimately unlocking the way through the crux. It's going to be a bold route though, with 12 metres of climbing protected with one bomber skyhook and perhaps a Tricam if we can find a position to place it. Thanks to Rebex for taking pictures.

Top Sequence from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

Breaking a hold up top

A New Project And New Movement

2010-06-03T21:11:00.002+01:00

It appears that sometimes the holds alone are not enough to support upwards movement and we must use the momentum from the previous move to help us skip through the harder one. I discovered such a solution to an apparent unclimbed but past-tried line today.

Gear at 2/5 height protects the crux moves perfectly- first leaving the break and then making wildly dynamic progression above. I spent a lot of time hanging off the crux attempting to find a pebble or nodule that may make progression possible. No such hold appeared. I was only 9 inches off a good slopey crimp and, after much trying, managed to use the momentum from the previous rockover into the break to catapult me to the very edge of my reach.

Hard moves, not quite sure how hard until I try it on a day which isn't so horribly hot. Definitely very hard for the short.

Another narcissistic exploit: The Path to Hypocrisy

2010-05-28T19:22:00.005+01:00

I was asked to write an article for the MUMC journal so i thought i'd post the finished thing up here as well. I couldn't be bothered to go in depth with a load of clichés so kept it quite factual, but hopefully interesting:

I keep going- with a belayer I’ve only just met, who looks worried. He’s set up a belay below me for some reason and I only notice this as I decide the only way is up. The top of the scoop looks like a good flat ledge and I’m committed, so I go for it. Wrong move. The slap for the top is met by a sloper and I now realise the consequences. The hairline crack below me had given me nothing and there is nothing before my belayer. The buttress seems to fly past me reasonably quickly, but the pain of the trees and craggy hillside seems to slow the second part of my fall somewhat. I come to a halt in a Holly bush, only about 4 feet short of the ground-proper. I’m bleeding quite a lot, but I can move. Cool.

It’s the Cleveland MC meet at Danby crag- a dirty crag with very few good routes, a lot of undergrowth and many dangerous moss-covered boulders. Me and my new favourite belayer decide to leave this new route, as it’s a bit suicidal, and elect to wander round, looking for some more cool lines. And then I see it. The blunt arête: slabby on one side and slightly overhanging on the other. A gear flake at just under half height seems to invite; with a wall that looks like it offers holds.

I return for an onsight attempt with Dooge and I fail, ripping a zero cam and hitting the ground again. Dave abseils down the line and tells me that on no account should I try the upper arête ground-up. So it began; months of waiting for it to dry out before I managed to get three or four shunting sessions on it. Finally, with the upper part linked, I set out on the lead.

Guarded by the cushion of pre-inspection, the route seems strangely friendly. The un-practiced bottom moves are as hard as I remember, but I arrive at the flat hold with little issue. Tricams and RPs in, I move round to do the tricky rockover, followed by the crux and now out of reach of the gear. I know just how to do the move and I feel solid, my body clamping around the arête. The top rockover is spicy, but I’m showboating now and the line is beaten. Back home for potatoes and beer.

Alps Objective- The South Face Of The Fou

2010-05-24T23:32:00.005+01:00

A bit scared as the pictures of this amazing smooth wall make it look absolutely hideously hard. Apparently it is as hard as it looks. I have a dream of freeing it, but maybe a little aid will be used- let's see.... Inspiring mountain though.

Apparently ED5 /UIAA IX if Freed, although I think the ED grade is a bit outdated with modern rock climbing techniques. Still going to be nails. Goes at ED 2/3 UIAA VI+ A2 with aid.

Summer 2010- The Plan

2010-05-15T12:36:00.002+01:00

Copyright Grahame N

By chance i've managed to arrange possibly one of the best summers anyone is going to have this year. A few days in the moors at the start of June to tick off some new routes I've linked, will be shortly followed by 12 days on Pabbay. I'm really excited about going to an uninhabited Island for nearly two weeks to do nothing but climb the amazing cliffs. Should be ace. After my return from Pabbay I'll have a few more days to explore north Wales and the Lakes before heading to the Alps for 6 weeks. This should then be followed by some more moors-time and the Lakes. If I get good weather and all this works out it will be absolutely incredible. Psyched!

Pembroke- Star Wars (E4 5c) And A Massive Whipper

2010-05-04T20:06:00.005+01:00

Three days at Pembroke were planned. The weather looked dodgey. The weather turned out to be ace. We were pleased.

First route of the trip was Starwars, which is basically just beautiful sustained climbing at about F6c. The gear was a lot worse than I expected, but the moves were straightforward and despite the very warm temperatures it felt well within my abilities.

I decided I'd tick a classic before getting on something hard, with a recommendation of Pleasure Dome (E3 5c) I mooched round to Stennis Head. Roper warned me that it was easy to get lost, but I didn't listen and thought it might provide me with a nice clean whipper even if I did get lost. I left the flake going more or less straight up, where the route is meant to go right apparently. Joining the crux of the E3 after doing something strange and now with my hands gradually sweating up (20 foot above my gear), I slapped for the holds near what looked like the last move. O No!

I was in the air for a while; being out right and far up and not having the last runners that pleasure dome is meant to have. I could feel the wind on my face and apparently looked jack (my belayer) straight in the eye, with a look of horror as I finally came tight on the rope. Swinging into the ledge, at the end of the fall out zone, I managed to put my hand out as I swung sideways into some sharp rock.

After that I was pretty knackered and bloody, so just got drunk. We managed to tick the classics of the Hole **** (HVS 5b), Sunlover (E3), Youth on Fire (E3), Lundy Road (E2), Joy Bringer (VS) and Fulmar Pants (HVS). Fulmar Pants was particularly entertaining with gulls and feeling heavily drunk.

Stubai Hornets Modified

2010-04-30T17:42:00.002+01:00

Getting a bit off route on Magic crack made me realise that climbing technical ground with leashed axes is not only sketchy, but pretty dangerous. Hence I have now modified these beautiful tools to try something hard this winter. They feel good and I fancy my chances of putting up something tricky.

Back to Manchester And Moosey Thoughts

2010-04-20T11:40:00.003+01:00

So a semi-successful trip back to the moors is over. Apart from 'The Hypocrisy of Moose' not much was really achieved. I've sussed out a lot of crags, projects and even seen the delights of Moors' bouldering at last. I've tried some stuff that seemed impossible (but then again 'The Moose' seemed impossible when I first tried it); realised that some of what I thought were 'last great problems' were pretty poor and even found a load more lines which look like they're pretty cool.

I suppose I should briefly explain why I called the arete 'The Hypocrisy of Moose'. Rather simple really- the ascent showed me for the Hypocritical Moose I am. Anyway, a big gap now and everything else I was trying in the moors seems a little easy and chossy in comparrison.

So the list of LG(perhaps not that great)Ps in the Moors currently stands at:

*The Arete at Ravenscar direct - H9 7a? *** (attempted on shunt)

The straightening-out of Steve's new E7+ would mean you'd be almost soloing the crux of his route, plus with a nails set of moves to get there.

*The Groove at Kepwick- H8/9 6c ** (linked on top rope)

F7cish to a V7 finish. One good Skyhook, serious possibility of injury. Ace climbing, poor setting.

*Gehenna Wall- E6/7 6b/c * (abed)

Chossy, but a good line. The holds will only hold about 40 kilos.

*The Scoop at Stoupe Brow- E7 6b/c *** (abed and shunted the crux)

Ace moves at around F7b+ with a massive but safish fall. Breaks out left from central crack.

A few routes that need doing but aren't really amazing (although quite good):

The finger Crack at Clemmitt's - E4/5 6b **- abed
Porcupine Arete, Snotterdale- E6 6b *-climbed a tree next to it
The Aid Line Kay Nest- E6 6c? - ground inspected
On crack Stoupe Brow- E5 6b ** - ground inspected

Choss not worth doing:

Mongol wall- E9?
Death arete- Danby- E8 6b?
The Roof crack at Middlehead- E4?
The wall at Oak crag- V9

The Hypocrisy Of Moose H7 6c (E8) *** Video

2010-04-12T18:01:00.001+01:00

The Hypocrisy of Moose*** from Lee Robinson on Vimeo.

Danby Arete Goes H7 6c (E8?) *** - The Hypocrisy Of Moose

2010-04-10T17:11:00.012+01:00

Last Moves (Betaguides)

An end of an era for me really. With a little extra injection of psyche from Lee 'Betaguides' Robinson I got on the lead today. I still hadn't linked the whole route on a shunt, but was confident that I had figured out a good sequence. Bouldering at Stormy Hall (Betaguides)

It felt easy on lead- without the pull from the shunt unbalancing me on the super tenuous crux. A real classic I reckon, with sustained 6b climbing leading to a couple of moves of hard 6c. Feels a bit strange to be headpointing, but it's probably harder than anyone could onsight anyway and it's good to try new things.

Crux (Betaguides)

Grading is difficult as it depends on how bomber you think the RP flake is. It's definately a lot harder than the few E6s I've done and very blind and sequencey. For the onsight i'd say it's worth E8, but for my effort probably a little less. Hopefully someone can come and repeat it and tell me if it's soft or stiff. I'm happy now :-D.

I must thank Victor Scott, who supplied me with RPs and a new chalk bag- most kind and Lee Robinson for filming it. We had a great day, with a little bouldering and then arete magic.

Video to come.

Die Projekte

2010-04-09T17:47:00.003+01:00

A truly great day today. An hour's shunting on the Danby arete felt easy. I didn't fall off any of the moves at all, which is incredible considering I only figured out the crux a day ago and could only do it 1/10 tries. I might get on the lead tomorrow- excited!

I've also been back to Ravenscar had a little bash at Stratagem (failed) and then a short shunting sesh on the arete, with Dooge taking pictures. Unfortunately my harness wasn't done up properly so I couldn't shunt it properly. Psyched for Danby though!